Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl?

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl is a lab made combo of two well known skin helpers: a small chain of three amino acids called tripeptide-5 that is linked to palmitic acid from palm oil, and a stable vitamin C derivative known as ascorbyl phosphate. The pairing is finished off with an amidopropyl group and a touch of hydrochloride to keep the molecule water friendly. Peptides first caught the beauty world’s eye in the early 2000s for their collagen supporting talent while vitamin C has long been prized for skin tone and glow. Chemists blended the two to get a single ingredient that can nudge skin to act younger and look brighter.

The tripeptide part is built by solid-phase peptide synthesis, a step by step process that strings the amino acids together on a resin. Palmitic acid is then attached to help the molecule slip through the outer skin layer. Separately glucose from corn is fermented to make pure vitamin C, which is turned into the more stable ascorbyl phosphate form and joined through an amidopropyl link. After purification the finished powder is milled and ready for cosmetic labs.

You will most often spot this ingredient in anti aging serums, eye creams, sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers and targeted treatment ampoules where brands want a blend of firming and brightening without using separate actives.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasker is added to formulas to improve the overall feel and look of skin.

As a skin conditioning agent it helps skin hold moisture, feel softer and appear smoother. The peptide side signals the skin to support fresh collagen which can reduce the look of fine lines while the vitamin C side works on an even tone and natural radiance. Together they leave skin looking plump healthy and well cared for.

Who Can Use Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl

This ingredient is gentle enough for most skin types. Dry, normal, oily and combination skin can all benefit from its hydrating and smoothing action while the low-sting vitamin C derivative keeps it friendly for many sensitive users. Those with very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still approach new products cautiously since any active can trigger issues in a small group.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl is made through laboratory synthesis using plant-based sources for both the palmitic acid and vitamin C parts. No animal ingredients or by-products are involved so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

There is no research suggesting problems for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when this ingredient is used topically at cosmetic levels. It is not absorbed in significant amounts and contains no known hormone disruptors. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices past a doctor to be on the safe side.

The molecule does not cause photosensitivity. In fact its antioxidant vitamin C portion can help defend against sun-triggered free radicals but sunscreen is still essential during the day. The ingredient mixes well with most other common actives and does not have a strict pH window which makes it easy to slot into a routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to topical Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues but they are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated correctly.

  • Mild tingling or temporary warmth right after application
  • Light redness or irritation in very sensitive or compromised skin
  • Small breakouts if the formula around the ingredient is too heavy for an oily or acne-prone user
  • Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching flaking or rash in rare cases
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Stinging when layered immediately after strong exfoliating acids or retinoids

If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl is mostly water soluble and used at low levels, so it does not clog pores on its own. The small palmitic acid tail attached to the peptide is present to improve skin penetration but is far too tiny to act like a pore-blocking fatty ingredient. Most formulas that use this molecule are lightweight serums or gels that rinse clean, keeping the overall acne risk low.

Suitable for acne-prone skin in the vast majority of cases.

If breakouts occur they are usually linked to heavier emollients or silicones in the finished product rather than the peptide-vitamin C complex itself.

Summary

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Amidopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Hcl is a lab crafted blend that conditions skin by encouraging fresh collagen, boosting hydration and lending antioxidant brightening power. The peptide portion tells skin to firm up while the stabilized vitamin C side fights dullness and early aging for a smoother more even look.

It is still a niche active, showing up in mid to high end serums and eye creams rather than mainstream moisturizers, but its multitasking nature has earned it a loyal following among ingredient savvy shoppers.

Current data shows it is gentle, non-sensitizing and non-comedogenic for most users, making it a safe choice for daily routines. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a fresh product first to ensure personal compatibility.

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