Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil?

Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil starts life as castor oil pressed from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant. The oil is first hydrogenated, a process that adds hydrogen to turn the liquid fatty acids into a wax-like solid that is more stable and less likely to spoil. Next the solid is reacted with about 20 units of ethylene oxide, which gives the ingredient its “PEG-20” tag and turns it into a water-friendly substance. The result is a soft, creamy material that can mix oil and water with ease.

Chemists began exploring castor-based emulsifiers in the mid-20th century when the beauty industry needed gentle options to replace harsher soaps. Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil quickly proved useful because it is plant-derived, mild on skin and able to keep formulas smooth even at low levels. Today it shows up in a wide range of rinse-off and leave-on products.

You will commonly find this ingredient in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, hydrating toners, sheet masks, lightweight lotions, hair conditioners and even some sunscreens where a stable oil-in-water blend is needed.

Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators value Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil for the following key roles

  • Cleansing: Its soap-like tail grabs onto dirt, makeup and excess sebum so they can be lifted away when you rinse, leaving skin or hair feeling fresh but not stripped
  • Emulsifying: It acts as a bridge between oil and water phases, keeping creams, lotions and serums from separating which improves texture, shelf life and the even delivery of active ingredients

Who Can Use Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

This ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it is lightweight, non-greasy and mild. Those with very reactive skin should still check the full product formula since irritation often comes from other ingredients rather than the emulsifier itself.

Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is plant derived and involves no animal sourced components, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The castor oil base comes from the Ricinus communis seed and the later processing steps are entirely synthetic.

No research suggests any specific risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used topically and in the small amounts found in finished cosmetics. This is not medical advice; anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss any skincare product with a healthcare professional before use to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it will not heighten the risk of sunburn or pigmentation issues. It is also free of fragrance and essential oil allergens, which keeps the chance of scent-related irritation low.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil differ from person to person. The points below outline possible side effects that could occur, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Mild skin irritation: rare redness or itching, most often in those with highly sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis: very uncommon allergic reaction presenting as rash or swelling
  • Eye stinging: temporary discomfort if a cleanser or makeup remover containing the ingredient gets into the eyes

If you experience any of the above reactions discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil sits low on the comedogenic scale because the hydrogenation and PEG-ylation steps turn the original fatty castor oil into a water-soluble surfactant that rinses clean instead of lingering in pores. It is used at low concentrations, has a lightweight non-occlusive texture and is designed to lift away sebum rather than add to it.

Suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts because it is unlikely to clog pores.

As with most PEG ingredients, purity depends on good manufacturing practices. Quality-controlled cosmetic grade material has minimal impurities that could otherwise raise irritation or clogging risks.

Summary

Peg-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a plant-derived helper that cleanses by surrounding dirt and makeup so they wash away easily and emulsifies by locking oil and water together for smooth stable formulas. Its dual action keeps cleansers effective and lotions silky without heaviness.

It is a quiet workhorse rather than a headline ingredient, showing up in many everyday products from micellar water to sunscreen because chemists trust it to do its job without fuss.

Current safety data and long years of use show it is generally non-irritating non-sensitising and non-comedogenic. Still perform a patch test when trying any new product to be sure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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