What Is Peg-20 Myristate?
Peg-20 Myristate is a synthetic ingredient created by attaching about twenty units of ethylene oxide to myristic acid, a fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil and palm kernel oil. The result is a waxy, water-soluble compound that bridges the gap between oil and water. Chemists began experimenting with ethoxylated fatty acids in the mid-20th century to improve the texture and rinse-off of personal care products, and Peg-20 Myristate quickly gained popularity for its reliable performance and mild feel on skin.
Manufacturing starts with plant-derived myristic acid that is purified and then reacted with ethylene oxide under controlled heat and pressure. The process is carefully monitored to reach an average of twenty ethylene oxide units per molecule, ensuring a consistent balance of oil-loving and water-loving parts.
Because of this balance, Peg-20 Myristate is widely used in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, lightweight lotions, hydrating mists and some rinse-off masks. Its ability to mix oil and water also makes it a handy helper in sunscreens and hair conditioners where a smooth stable texture is essential.
Peg-20 Myristate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Peg-20 Myristate for two main reasons that directly improve how a product looks, feels and performs.
- Cleansing: The ingredient surrounds dirt, excess sebum and makeup so they can be lifted away with water. This gentle surfactant action helps products foam lightly and rinse clean without leaving a greasy film or over-drying the skin.
- Emulsifying: Peg-20 Myristate links oil and water phases, preventing separation and giving creams and lotions a smooth uniform texture. A stable emulsion means a longer shelf life consistent performance and a pleasant application experience.
Who Can Use Peg-20 Myristate
Peg-20 Myristate is generally well tolerated by most skin types including normal, oily, combination and even many sensitive skins thanks to its mild cleansing profile. Those with very dry or compromised skin may wish to pair it with richer moisturizers since the ingredient itself does not add oils or occlusive agents.
The raw materials are plant derived and the final compound contains no animal by-products so it suits both vegans and vegetarians. Some formulas may blend it with other ingredients of animal origin, so label readers should still double-check the full ingredient list.
Current research shows no particular concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Peg-20 Myristate is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run all personal care products past a qualified doctor to be safe.
The ingredient is non-photosensitizing, meaning it will not make skin more reactive to sunlight. It is also odorless and colorless so it rarely interferes with fragrance or dye sensitivities.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Peg-20 Myristate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, though most users will not experience any of them when the ingredient is included at standard cosmetic levels.
- Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching, typically in very sensitive individuals
- Eye stinging if a cleanser or makeup remover containing the ingredient gets into the eyes before being rinsed away
- Contact dermatitis in rare cases where a person is allergic to ethoxylated compounds
- Dryness or tightness if the formula as a whole removes too much natural oil from the skin
If you notice any persistent discomfort discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Peg-20 Myristate is highly water soluble and easily rinses off, which keeps it from lingering in pores and forming blockages. While its parent fatty acid myristic acid has a moderate tendency to clog pores, the hefty dose of polyethylene glycol attached to it dramatically reduces that risk. Most acne-prone users should find it acceptable, though extremely sensitive or congested skin types may still prefer to monitor how their skin responds. Comedogenicity also depends on the entire formula and concentration, so a product heavy in oils could still be problematic even if this single ingredient is not.
Summary
Peg-20 Myristate serves primarily as a mild cleanser and a dependable emulsifier. Its oil-loving tail grabs onto sebum, makeup and grime while its water-loving PEG head lets those impurities wash away cleanly. The same dual nature keeps oil and water phases blended, giving creams, cleansers and sprays a smooth stable texture.
It is a quiet workhorse rather than a trendy superstar, but its reliability means you will spot it in everyday staples like micellar waters, lightweight lotions and gel cleansers. Safety studies and years of consumer use show it is generally low risk with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare ingredient, perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains Peg-20 Myristate to make sure your skin feels comfortable with it.