What Is Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate?
Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate is a synthetic ingredient created by attaching an average of 23 units of ethylene oxide to octyldodecanoic acid, a fatty acid derived from natural oils such as coconut or palm. The result is a waxy liquid that combines the oil-loving traits of fatty acids with the water-loving traits of polyethylene glycol. This dual nature is what makes the ingredient valuable in modern skincare.
The use of polyethylene glycols in cosmetics began gaining momentum in the late 1950s when formulators sought gentler alternatives to harsh detergents. Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate emerged as part of this evolution, offering reliable performance without noticeable heaviness on the skin. Today it is produced through a controlled ethoxylation process in which ethylene oxide gas reacts with purified octyldodecanoic acid under specific temperature and pressure. The reaction is carefully monitored to reach the target average of 23 ethylene oxide units, ensuring consistent quality.
You are likely to find Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate in moisturizers, facial masks, lightweight lotions, sunscreens, cleansing balms, makeup removers and anti-aging serums. Its ability to keep water and oil evenly mixed lets formulators create products that stay smooth, feel elegant and deliver active ingredients more evenly across the skin.
Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In topical products Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate is valued chiefly for one key role.
As an emulsifying agent it binds water and oil into a stable blend so creams and lotions do not separate in the jar or on your skin. A well-emulsified formula spreads more easily, feels lighter and improves the delivery of moisturizing and active ingredients. This stability also lets manufacturers reduce the need for heavier thickeners, giving the finished product a smoother more elegant texture.
Who Can Use Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate
Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate is generally considered suitable for all skin types, including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive skin, thanks to its lightweight feel and low likelihood of clogging pores. Extremely acne-prone users may prefer to monitor their skin for any increase in breakouts, since every complexion is unique, but most will not notice issues.
The ingredient is produced from plant-derived fatty acids and synthetic ethylene oxide so it contains no animal by-products, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women when it is used topically in cosmetic amounts. This is informational only; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss all skincare products with a qualified doctor to be on the safe side.
Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate does not absorb UV light and is not known to trigger photosensitivity. It can be worn in daytime formulas without causing extra sun sensitivity.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate can vary from person to person. The points below outline possible issues yet they are uncommon when the ingredient has been properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation
- Redness or itching in people with polyethylene glycol allergies
- Temporary stinging if applied to broken or abraded skin
- Rare cases of contact dermatitis
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Minor breakouts in individuals highly prone to acne
If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate contains a fatty acid backbone yet the addition of twenty-three ethylene oxide units makes the molecule highly water compatible and less likely to lodge inside pores. Its lightweight texture tends to rinse away or spread thinly without creating an occlusive film, so it rarely encourages blackheads or pimples. Most acne-prone users should tolerate it, though results can vary depending on the overall formula and how heavily the product is layered. Formulas that pair it with thick waxes or heavy oils may shift the final pore-clogging potential upward, so ingredient context always matters.
Summary
Peg-23 Octyldodecanoate is mainly an emulsifier that keeps water and oil phases blended, which gives creams and lotions a smooth stable texture and helps active ingredients disperse evenly across the skin. Its pegylated structure allows it to sit lightly, offering the spreading ease of a synthetic while avoiding the greasy residue sometimes left by pure plant oils.
The ingredient is not as famous as workhorse emulsifiers like glyceryl stearate yet it shows up in a steady stream of modern moisturizers, cleansing balms and sunscreens where a silky feel is desired. Brands appreciate its reliability and consumers enjoy the elegant finish it provides.
Safety data and decades of cosmetic use point to a low risk of irritation for most people. While problems are infrequent it is always smart to patch test a new product so you can spot any personal sensitivities before applying it to a larger area.