What Is Peg-23 Stearate?
Peg-23 Stearate is a man-made ingredient created by attaching about twenty-three ethylene oxide units to stearic acid, a fatty acid most often sourced from vegetable oils such as coconut or palm. The result is a waxy, off-white material that blends oil-loving and water-loving parts in one molecule. Chemists first began experimenting with polyethylene glycol (PEG) stearates in the mid-20th century when the cosmetics industry was searching for safer, milder alternatives to soap-based emulsifiers. Over time Peg-23 Stearate proved reliable for forming stable, creamy textures, which led to its adoption in everyday skin and hair products.
Manufacturing starts with purified stearic acid that is reacted with ethylene oxide under controlled heat and pressure. The “23” indicates the average number of oxide units added, which determines how water-soluble the final ingredient will be. After neutralization and purification steps, the finished material is dried and milled into flakes or beads ready for use by formulators.
You will typically find Peg-23 Stearate in facial cleansers, lightweight moisturizers, cream masks, sun care products, rinse-off scrubs and some styling creams. It is valued for giving these formulas a smooth feel, good rinse-off and a uniform appearance without greasiness.
Peg-23 Stearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Peg-23 Stearate for two key jobs within a product
- Cleansing: The ingredient’s balanced oil-and-water structure helps lift away dirt, makeup and excess sebum while rinsing off easily, leaving skin or hair feeling fresh not stripped
- Emulsifying: It binds water and oil phases together so lotions and creams stay homogenous, resist separation and deliver active ingredients evenly across the skin
Who Can Use Peg-23 Stearate
Peg-23 Stearate is considered friendly to nearly all skin types including normal, oily, combination, dry and sensitive skin thanks to its mild cleansing action and lightweight texture. It is non occlusive so it rarely aggravates breakouts which makes it appropriate even for acne-prone individuals, though very reactive skin should still monitor for any discomfort.
The stearic acid used to make Peg-23 Stearate is often sourced from coconut or palm oil so most suppliers can provide a fully plant-derived grade suitable for vegans and vegetarians. If animal origin is a concern consumers should look for brands that state the ingredient is vegetable based or RSPO certified.
No studies indicate that topical Peg-23 Stearate poses a risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. It is classed as generally recognized as safe for cosmetic use. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to their healthcare provider for personalized guidance.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and has no known interactions with UV light so daytime use does not require extra sun precautions beyond the usual recommendation to wear sunscreen.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to Peg-23 Stearate can differ. The following list covers potential side effects although they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly by the end user.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging, typically in very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in users with a specific polyethylene glycol sensitivity
- Transient eye irritation if the product accidentally enters the eyes
- Rare pore congestion in individuals extremely prone to comedones when used in rich leave-on creams
If a negative reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Peg-23 Stearate has a low tendency to clog pores because it is highly water dispersible and leaves behind minimal oily residue. Its molecular size and presence of water loving polyethylene glycol chains help it rinse clean rather than sit in follicles where blockages form.
Overall this rating means the ingredient is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, especially in rinse-off products and lightweight lotions.
Formulas that pair Peg-23 Stearate with heavy plant butters or waxes could raise the final product’s comedogenicity so always consider the full ingredient list if congestion is a concern.
Summary
Peg-23 Stearate acts mainly as a cleanser and emulsifier. Its balanced fatty acid backbone anchors to oils while its polyethylene glycol side chains bind water, allowing it to break up grime and keep oil-and-water mixtures stable so creams stay smooth and wash off clean.
The ingredient enjoys steady if quiet popularity in everyday cleansers sunscreens and light creams because it is reliable affordable and easy to formulate with though it is not a headline grabbing star.
Safety data and decades of use show Peg-23 Stearate is well tolerated for most skin types with a very low irritation and allergen profile. As with any new product a short patch test is wise to confirm personal compatibility before regular use.