Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether?

Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether is a lab-made polymer built from long chains of polyethylene glycol (PEG) that are linked to a small amount of hexamethylene diisocyanate and capped with fatty alcohol groups. This blend of water-loving PEG segments and oil-friendly side chains gives the ingredient a balanced character that works well in many skin and hair formulas.

The material was introduced in the early 2000s when cosmetic chemists were looking for gentle ways to keep colors and fragrances from breaking down under light. By joining high-molecular-weight PEG with a UV-stable core, they created a polymer that could help shield formulas while also fine-tuning their thickness.

Manufacturing starts with ethoxylating ethylene oxide onto a starter alcohol until the desired chain length is reached. The PEG portion is then reacted with hexamethylene diisocyanate to form a soft polyurethane backbone. Finally, fatty alcohol ethoxylates are attached to both ends, giving the finished copolymer its surface-active features.

You will most often spot this ingredient in leave-on conditioners, hair masks, color-protecting shampoos, sunscreens, daily moisturizers, anti-aging serums, foundations and other products that need stable texture and resistance to UV-induced fading.

Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient serves two main jobs in personal care products

  • Light Stabilizer: absorbs or scatters portions of UV light, helping stop colors, fragrances and active ingredients from degrading so the product keeps its look, scent and potency for a longer time
  • Viscosity Controlling: adjusts thickness so creams, lotions or sprays feel smooth, stay mixed and spread evenly on skin or hair

Who Can Use Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether

This polymer is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Its water loving nature keeps it from forming a heavy film, so oily and acne prone users usually do not find it clogging while its smooth slip helps dry or mature skin feel comfortable. Sensitive skin can normally handle it too since it lacks strong fragrance or known harsh solvents, though anyone with a documented allergy to polyethylene glycols should avoid it.

The compound is fully synthetic and contains no animal sourced components which makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Standard manufacturing routes rely on petrochemical feedstocks rather than animal by products.

Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding because the molecule stays on the surface and is not readily absorbed. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should let their doctor review any product they plan to use just to be safe.

Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether does not cause photosensitivity. In fact it helps stabilize formulas against UV light so there is no need for extra sun protection beyond your usual sunscreen when using products that contain it.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether differ from person to person. The issues listed below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used at the levels normally found in cosmetics and when the finished product has been made correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation
  • Contact allergy in individuals already sensitive to polyethylene glycols or polyurethane compounds
  • Temporary eye stinging if a product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Scalp buildup or flaking when very concentrated leave-on hair treatments are not rinsed between uses

If you notice any of these effects stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or pharmacist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

This copolymer is built from large PEG chains that stay mostly on the skin surface and rinse away easily. It lacks heavy oils or waxes that can lodge in pores, so the chance of it triggering blackheads or pimples is very low. The tiny presence of fatty side groups gives slip without adding grease, which is why it earns a 1 rather than a perfect 0.

Bottom line, the ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Because the finished product formula, not just a single raw material, decides real-world pore clogging risk, the overall vehicle should still be considered.

Summary

Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether works as a light stabilizer and viscosity controller. Its UV-resistant backbone helps absorb or scatter rays that would otherwise fade colors, scents or actives while the long PEG chains and balanced oil-loving ends fine-tune thickness so creams, lotions and sprays feel smooth and stay uniform.

It is a niche ingredient seen mainly in color-protecting shampoos, leave-in conditioners, sunscreens and a smattering of skin care where long-term formula stability is a selling point. You will not find it in every aisle yet chemists value its multitasking nature.

Current safety data rate it as low risk for irritation or sensitization. Still, everyone’s skin is different so it is smart to patch test any new product that lists this polymer to be sure it agrees with you.

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