What Is Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate?
Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a synthetic ingredient created by linking 12-hydroxystearic acid (a fatty acid derived from castor or other vegetable oils) with about 30 units of ethylene oxide. The result is a waxy, water-dispersible compound that bridges the gap between oil and water. Chemists first explored this class of materials in the mid-20th century while searching for reliable emulsifiers that could offer stability without a greasy feel. Over time it earned a place in modern cosmetics thanks to its ability to form smooth, elegant textures even in challenging formulations such as high-pigment makeup or water-free balms.
The manufacturing process starts with hydrogenated castor oil that is split to isolate 12-hydroxystearic acid. This acid is then polymerized to create a di-ester backbone, after which controlled amounts of ethylene oxide are added. The number 30 in the name indicates the average chain length of the polyethylene glycol (PEG) portion. Final purification removes unreacted materials, leaving a high-purity emulsifier suited to skin care and color cosmetics.
You will most often see Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate in foundation, BB and CC creams, anhydrous cleansing balms, solid or whipped moisturizers, sunscreens, clay masks, stick products like deodorants or blush and any formula that needs to suspend pigments or oils evenly without separation.
Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for a single but crucial role in formulations: it acts as an emulsifier. By positioning its oil-loving tail in oils and its water-loving PEG head in the aqueous phase, it pulls the two together into a stable blend. That translates to creams that stay homogenous on the shelf, lotions that feel light yet rich and makeup that glides on evenly without streaks or clumps.
Who Can Use Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is generally well tolerated by all skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its lightweight non occlusive nature means it rarely aggravates oily or acne-prone skin, while its fatty acid backbone offers a touch of emollience that can benefit drier complexions. Extremely sensitive or highly reactive skin may still want to monitor for individual tolerance because any emulsifier has the potential to cause irritation in rare cases.
The ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians because its fatty acid component is typically sourced from vegetable-derived castor oil and the remaining portions are synthesized from petrochemical or plant-based feedstocks. No animal-derived substances are required during standard production.
Current safety assessments classify Peg-based emulsifiers as low risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when used topically. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss any skincare product with a qualified healthcare professional before use.
Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need for extra sun protection beyond normal daily sunscreen habits. It also does not interfere with common actives like retinoids or vitamin C making it easy to layer within a routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to topical Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished formula.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness stinging or itching
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to polyethylene glycol compounds
- Follicular congestion or breakouts in very acne-prone users if the overall formula is heavy
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Sensitivity to trace impurities like residual ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane if manufacturing quality controls are poor
If any discomfort swelling rash or other unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and seek advice from a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate contains a fatty acid backbone but it is highly modified and balanced by a large water-loving PEG portion which keeps it from clogging pores in most users. Its molecule is too bulky and water-interactive to sit densely in follicles so it has a very low tendency to provoke blackheads or whiteheads. Overall it is considered suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts, provided the rest of the formula is also lightweight. As with any PEG ingredient the purity of the raw material matters because residual impurities could raise irritation but would not alter comedogenicity.
Summary
Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is primarily an emulsifier that lets oils and water stay blended by anchoring its oil-loving tail in lipids while its PEG head stabilizes the water phase. This dual affinity keeps creams smooth pigments evenly dispersed and balms from separating. Its use is especially common in foundations sunscreens and cleansing balms though it is less talked about than classic emulsifiers like polysorbates or lecithin. Safety reviews place it in the low-risk category for topical use with rare irritation reports. When trying any new product containing it it is smart to patch test first to confirm personal compatibility.