What Is Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate?
Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate is a man-made ingredient created by joining oleic acid, a fatty acid present in vegetable oils, with small units of ethylene oxide. The result is a waxy, water-loving molecule that can link oil and water. Chemically it is described as a polyoxyethylene derivative, with “Peg-5” indicating an average of five ethylene oxide units attached to each oleamide dioleate backbone.
The path to cosmetic use began in the 1970s when formulators looked for mild plant-based emulsifiers to replace harsher soaps. By modifying natural oleic acid with ethylene oxide, scientists produced a versatile ingredient that could stabilize creams without strong alkalinity. Over time Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate proved reliable in both laboratory tests and real-world products, earning its spot on ingredient lists worldwide.
Manufacturing starts with purified oleic acid, often sourced from soybean, sunflower or rapeseed oil. The acid is first converted into oleamide, then reacted with controlled amounts of ethylene oxide under heat and pressure. Careful monitoring ensures an average of five ethylene oxide units attach, giving consistent performance from batch to batch.
You are most likely to find Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate in moisturizers, cleansing milks, makeup removers, hair conditioners, face masks and lightweight serums where a smooth, non-greasy texture is important. It is also useful in gentle baby care formulas and after-sun lotions that need to stay stable in varying temperatures.
Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves one main purpose that makes many formulas work better.
As an emulsifying agent it helps oil and water mix evenly so lotions do not split and creams feel uniform from the first pump to the last. By keeping a stable emulsion it improves spreadability, light skin feel and overall shelf life, allowing brands to reduce heavier waxes or synthetic stabilizers while still delivering a smooth product.
Who Can Use Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate
Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate is generally well tolerated by most skin types including normal, dry, combination and oily skin. Its mild nature makes it a good fit for sensitive skin too, although people with a known sensitivity to polyethylene glycols or fatty acid derivatives might prefer to avoid it.
The ingredient is usually sourced from plant oils so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Formulators still need to confirm the supply chain is free of animal-derived processing aids but in most modern cosmetics that requirement is met.
There are no specific warnings against use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Current safety assessments classify it as a low-risk cosmetic emulsifier, yet this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should check with their healthcare provider before adding any new skincare product to their routine.
Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate is not known to cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with common active ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C and low-level acids, making it versatile in multi-step routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues, yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Transient stinging or mild burning on very sensitive skin
- Redness or itching linked to rare allergic contact dermatitis
- Eye irritation if the product inadvertently gets into the eyes
- Enhanced absorption of other actives that might themselves be irritating
If any discomfort, persistent irritation or rash develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate is highly water soluble thanks to its short polyethylene glycol chain, so it rinses away easily and does not leave a thick oily film that could block pores. Its molecular size and emulsifying nature help disperse sebum rather than trap it, keeping buildup to a minimum. Because of this low tendency to clog follicles it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Real-world breakouts are more likely to stem from the overall formula, so a lightweight product containing this emulsifier is unlikely to be the culprit.
As with any ingredient, individual skin chemistry varies. Very occlusive bases or heavy oils paired with Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate could still feel pore-clogging, so always consider the full ingredient list.
Summary
Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate is an emulsifier that pulls oil and water together, stabilising lotions, creams and cleansers so they stay smooth and consistent. By attaching around five ethylene oxide units to oleamide, chemists created a molecule that can sit at the oil-water boundary, lower surface tension and keep mixtures from separating. Its mildness lets formulators rely on it instead of harsher soaps, giving products a lighter silky feel.
While not the most talked-about cosmetic star, it shows up quietly in many moisturisers, cleansing milks and baby care items where a dependable plant-based emulsifier is needed. Safety assessments rate it as low risk at typical use levels. Still, skin is personal so it is wise to patch test any new product containing Peg-5 Oleamide Dioleate before fully adding it to your routine.