Peg-8 Dicocoate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-8 Dicocoate?

Peg-8 Dicocoate is a synthetic ingredient made by combining coconut derived fatty acids with a short chain of polyethylene glycol that averages eight repeating units. The result is a lightweight liquid ester that mixes the skin friendly feel of coconut oil with the water solubility that polyethylene glycol brings. Chemists first began experimenting with these blends in the late 1970s when the cosmetics industry was looking for gentler alternatives to harsh detergents. By the mid 1980s Peg-8 Dicocoate had found a place in skin care for its dependable performance as a mild emulsifier.

Manufacturing starts with splitting coconut oil into its individual fatty acids, mainly lauric and myristic acid. These acids are then reacted with ethylene oxide in a controlled setting to attach eight ethoxy units, creating Peg-8. A second reaction links two of the modified fatty acids to each Peg-8 backbone, yielding the finished diester. The process is carefully monitored to keep impurities low and to meet cosmetic grade standards.

Because it helps oil and water stay mixed, Peg-8 Dicocoate appears in a wide range of products such as facial moisturizers, cleansing balms, sheet masks, cream based foundations, hair conditioners and after sun lotions. Its light texture also makes it a favorite in leave on treatments where a heavy or greasy feel would be undesirable.

Peg-8 Dicocoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Peg-8 Dicocoate is valued mainly for its emulsifying power. By sitting at the boundary between oil and water, it allows formulators to create smooth stable creams and lotions that do not separate on the shelf or on the skin. A reliable emulsion means the active ingredients are evenly distributed, the product feels consistent from the first pump to the last and the user enjoys a pleasant, non greasy finish.

Who Can Use Peg-8 Dicocoate

Thanks to its light non greasy feel Peg-8 Dicocoate normally suits most skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry. Sensitive or highly reactive skin can also tolerate it in many cases because the ingredient is considered mild, though anyone already prone to coconut allergies should proceed with care as the fatty acids come from coconut oil.

The component is synthetic yet sourced from plant based raw materials so it is generally acceptable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal derived substances or by products are used in its standard manufacturing process.

Peg-8 Dicocoate has no known hormonal activity so it is not automatically restricted during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have their doctor review any skincare product they plan to use just to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and can be worn during daytime without making the skin more prone to sunburn. It is also odorless and colorless which helps keep formulas simple and less irritating for fragrance sensitive users.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Peg-8 Dicocoate can vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential issues yet they are unlikely to occur for most users when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.

  • Mild skin irritation – a temporary stinging or warming sensation may appear on very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis – rare red itchy patches can develop in individuals allergic to polyethylene glycol based materials or coconut derivatives
  • Eye discomfort – if the product accidentally gets into the eyes it can cause brief watering or burning
  • Allergic reaction – swelling or hives are possible in people with a documented allergy to the ingredient though this is uncommon

If you notice any of these negative effects stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5

Peg-8 Dicocoate starts with coconut fatty acids that can be pore clogging in their raw form, but once they are converted into a highly water dispersible PEG diester their tendency to block pores is sharply reduced. The molecule rinses away more easily than straight oils and leaves only a very thin film, so build-up inside follicles is unlikely. For most acne-prone users this ingredient is considered low risk, though overall formula design and personal skin response still matter.

Because it also helps other oils stay evenly suspended, it can even lower the chance of heavier ingredients settling onto the skin in concentrated spots, further reducing breakout potential.

Summary

Peg-8 Dicocoate is mainly an emulsifier that keeps oil and water phases blended, giving creams and lotions a smooth stable texture. Its dual nature comes from the coconut-derived fatty acid ends that love oil and the short PEG chain that loves water, letting it bridge the two and prevent separation. The ingredient is moderately popular, showing up more often in mid-range moisturizers and cleansing balms than in trendy serums, largely because formulators have many newer PEG-free options to choose from.

Safety data show a low rate of irritation or allergy, and regulatory bodies place no special restrictions on its use. As with any cosmetic ingredient it makes sense to patch test a new product first to rule out personal sensitivity.

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