Peg-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer?

Peg-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer is a lab-created ingredient that links two well-known components: PEG-8 dimethicone, a lightweight silicone, and dimer dilinoleic acid, a fatty acid derived from plant oils such as soybean or safflower. Joining them forms a large, flexible molecule that behaves like a silky film on the skin. The idea of blending silicones with fatty acids took off in the 1990s when formulators wanted the smooth glide of silicones plus the rich feel of natural oils without leaving a greasy surface. Today the copolymer is produced in controlled reactors where PEG-8 dimethicone is first activated, then chemically bonded with dimer dilinoleic acid to create a stable, skin-friendly polymer. After purification and quality checks it arrives as a clear to slightly hazy liquid that mixes easily with other cosmetic ingredients. You are most likely to find it in lightweight moisturizers, hydrating serums, priming lotions, leave-on masks, sunscreens and anti-aging creams that aim for a soft finish and long-lasting comfort.

Peg-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare formulas this copolymer pulls double duty by conditioning the skin and adding a cushiony feel.

  • Skin conditioning: Forms a breathable film that locks in water, smooths rough patches and helps active ingredients spread evenly so the skin feels softer and looks more polished
  • Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between skin cells creating an instant silky surface without heaviness which is especially handy in oil-free or quick-absorbing products

Who Can Use Peg-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer

This ingredient is considered friendly for most skin types. Dry and normal skin usually enjoy its water-locking film while combination or oily skin like that it feels weightless and does not add extra shine. Sensitive skin generally tolerates silicones well but anyone with a known silicone allergy or who reacts to fatty acids may want to avoid it.

The dimer dilinoleic acid portion is sourced from plant oils and no animal-derived materials are typically involved in the manufacturing process so formulas containing this copolymer are normally suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As with any third-party raw material it is wise to confirm cruelty-free and animal origin status with the specific brand.

There is no published evidence that Peg-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer poses a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask their doctor before adding new skincare products.

The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not considered photosensitising. It also plays nicely with common actives like retinoids, vitamin C and acids because it forms a non-reactive film rather than interfering with them.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Peg-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer differ from person to person. The points below highlight potential side effects yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Transient flushing or mild warmth immediately after application in very reactive skin
  • Redness or itching for individuals allergic to silicones or fatty acid derivatives
  • Clogged pores if layered with very heavy occlusive products on already congested skin
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally migrates into the eye area during application

If irritation or any other negative effect occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 (very low)

This polymer stays mostly on the surface thanks to its large molecular size, creating a light breathable film that is unlikely to lodge in pores. Formulators rarely report breakout issues with it, but because any film former can add a tiny bit of occlusion the score lands at 1 rather than 0.

It is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Keep in mind that the finished formula matters; if it is paired with heavy waxes or rich oils the overall product could become more pore clogging even though the copolymer itself is low risk.

Summary

PEG-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer works as a skin conditioning emollient, smoothing rough areas, sealing in hydration and giving formulas a weightless silky slip. It does this by forming a flexible mesh of silicone and plant-derived fatty acid on the skin’s surface that locks in moisture yet still lets skin breathe.

Though not as widely recognized as plain dimethicone it is appearing more often in modern moisturizers, serums and sunscreens because it offers the glide of silicone with a softer natural feel.

Safety data show it is well tolerated by most skin types with minimal risk of irritation or clogged pores. As with any new product it is wise to do a small patch test first before applying it all over the face.

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