Peg-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer?

Peg-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer is a lab-crafted ingredient that blends two well known cosmetic helpers: silicone based PEG-8 dimethicone and plant derived Polysorbate 20. During production these two parts react with succinic acid, creating a flexible network called a copolymer. The silicone side gives slip and a silky feel, while the polysorbate side loves water, letting the final material sit comfortably between oil and water. Chemists first turned to this hybrid in the early 2000s when they needed a gentle way to keep modern light-weight creams from separating. Manufacturing starts with purified PEG-8 dimethicone and Polysorbate 20, which are mixed under heat, treated with succinic acid to form links, then neutralized and filtered for purity. The finished powder or viscous fluid is easy to disperse in water or oil phases, making it a favorite in moisturizers, face masks, foundations, primers, sunscreens and leave-on hair products that aim for a smooth, non-greasy finish.

Peg-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The main job of this ingredient is to keep a formula stable so it performs the same every time you use it. As an emulsion stabilizer it locks oil and water together, stopping the cream or lotion from splitting in the jar or on the skin. This steadiness gives products a longer shelf life, a uniform texture and a lighter feel during application. It also helps other skin loving ingredients spread evenly so you get consistent benefits with each use.

Who Can Use Peg-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer

Thanks to its mild nature and balanced oil-and-water affinity this copolymer works well for nearly every skin type including dry, oily, sensitive and combination. It forms a breathable film that helps lock in moisture without feeling heavy so even reactive skin usually tolerates it. Those with very acne-prone or severely congested skin should still monitor how their complexion responds since any film-forming ingredient can occasionally trap existing sebum and debris.

The raw materials come from synthetic silicone and plant-derived sorbitol sources with no animal by-products involved which makes the ingredient suitable for both vegetarians and vegans. As always final product certifications depend on the brand’s overall sourcing and animal testing policies.

Current safety data shows no reproductive or developmental concerns so products containing this polymer are generally considered safe for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should review all skincare choices with their healthcare provider to be sure.

Peg-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer does not increase photosensitivity and can be used day or night alongside sunscreen. It is also fragrance-free and unlikely to interfere with common actives like retinol or vitamin C.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to topical ingredients can differ. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and they are rare when a formula is made and used as directed.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in very sensitive users
  • Contact dermatitis triggered by an allergy to the polysorbate component
  • Temporary clogged pores or breakouts in people highly prone to acne
  • Stinging or watering if the product accidentally enters the eyes

If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional if symptoms persist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5. The silicone backbone creates a large, breathable film that tends to sit on the surface rather than sinking into pores, while the polysorbate side boosts water compatibility so the material rinses away more easily than heavier oils. Reports of pore clogging are low, though someone who breaks out very easily might still notice an occasional flare if a formula also contains richer emollients. Overall it is considered suitable for most acne-prone users.

Keep in mind that comedogenicity depends on the finished product and how much of this polymer is used, so results can vary from one cream or primer to another.

Summary

Peg-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer mainly acts as an emulsion stabilizer. By pairing an oil-loving silicone segment with a water-loving polysorbate segment the molecule anchors oil droplets within the water phase and stops a lotion from separating. At the same time the silicone portion gives slip and a soft-touch finish so products feel lighter and spread more evenly.

The ingredient enjoys steady but not blockbuster popularity, showing up most often in modern lightweight moisturizers, primers and sunscreens where a smooth non-greasy feel is important. It is generally recognized as safe, non-sensitizing and free of major health concerns. As with any new skincare product it is wise to do a quick patch test to be sure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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