Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate?

Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate is a specialty polymer that starts with two natural backbones. The first is pullulan, a sugar-based molecule made by fermenting starch with the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans. The second is PEI-42, a branched polyethylenimine chosen for its ability to grab water and cling to skin. Chemists react pullulan with acetic anhydride, swapping some of its natural hydroxyl groups for acetate groups to create pullulan acetate. They then link this modified pullulan to PEI-42, giving the final ingredient a balanced mix of film-forming flexibility and skin-friendly feel.

The manufacturing steps are straightforward: purify pullulan, acetylate it in a controlled vessel, neutralize and wash away leftover acid, then blend the resulting pullulan acetate with PEI-42 under gentle heat. After filtration and drying, the fine powder or viscous solution is ready for formulators.

Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate entered cosmetic labs in the early 2000s when brands looked for plant-derived film formers that felt lighter than traditional gums. Its dual heritage of sugar and amine chemistries made it attractive for leave-on skincare where both softness and a breathable barrier were needed. Today you’ll see it in sheet masks, anti-aging serums, lightweight moisturizers, eye creams and soothing after-sun treatments, often paired with humectants and botanical extracts.

Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient pulls double duty in a formula, offering both skin feel and protective perks

  • Skin conditioning: Forms a smooth, flexible film that helps skin feel soft and hydrated. The film traps surface moisture while still letting skin breathe, giving an instant silky finish without tackiness
  • Skin protecting: Creates a light barrier that shields against daily aggressors like wind and pollution particles. By sitting on the surface it reduces transepidermal water loss, which can keep dryness and irritation at bay

Who Can Use Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate

This ingredient gets along with most skin types. Dry, normal and sensitive complexions appreciate the light film that locks in water without feeling greasy, while combination and moderately oily skin tolerate it well because it is non occlusive and alcohol free. Only those with very oily skin who dislike any surface coating might find it less ideal, though the risk is low thanks to its breathable finish.

Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. Its pullulan part is produced by fermenting plant starch and the PEI-42 segment is synthesized in a lab, so no animal derived materials are involved in its sourcing or processing.

Current safety data show no specific hazards for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at cosmetic levels. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new products to a routine.

The molecule does not absorb UV light, so it is not known to cause photosensitivity. It can be worn during the day under sunscreen without raising the risk of sunburn.

Formulators also value its compatibility with most actives, dyes and fragrances, plus its stability across a wide pH range, making it easy to slot into many kinds of products.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate vary from person to person. The points below cover potential reactions, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Mild redness or stinging may occur in very sensitive skin during the first few uses but usually subsides quickly
  • Temporary tight or dry sensation can appear if the product contains a high percentage of the polymer without enough accompanying humectants
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis has been reported in individuals already sensitized to polyethylenimine derivatives
  • Clogged pores or surface breakouts could develop on extremely oily skin when the ingredient is layered with heavy waxes or butters

If any unwanted reaction develops, stop using the product and consult a qualified medical professional for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5. Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate is a water-friendly polymer that sits on the surface in a thin breathable layer instead of seeping into pores. It contains no fatty acids or heavy oils that typically trigger clogs. A score of 1 reflects a very low risk, though not an absolute zero, because any film former can hold sweat or sebum against the skin if used in very thick formulas or paired with rich waxes.

Good news for breakout-prone users: most people with acne can use products containing this ingredient without seeing extra bumps.

Extra note: in rinse-off cleansers the risk is close to nil thanks to short contact time, while leave-on creams or masks may warrant a bit more attention if you are extremely oily.

Summary

Pei-42 Pullulan Acetate works mainly as a skin conditioner and protector. It forms a smooth flexible film that locks in water, softens rough patches and shields skin from wind and pollution while still letting it breathe. That film comes from the pullulan backbone, while the PEI-42 part helps it grab moisture and stay put.

The ingredient is moderately popular. You will spot it in sheet masks and lightweight serums but it has not reached the mainstream status of hyaluronic acid or glycerin, mainly because it is newer and costs more to produce.

Safety data are reassuring: it shows very low irritation potential, a near non-comedogenic profile and no known issues for pregnant or breastfeeding users at cosmetic levels. Like any new skincare addition it is smart to patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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