Pentapeptide-23: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pentapeptide-23?

Pentapeptide-23 is a lab-made chain of five amino acids built from glutamic acid, lysine and threonine. Because it is synthetic, it is not taken from plants or animals. Scientists design it to copy the helpful signals that naturally occur in skin, guiding cells to stay smooth and firm.

The idea of using small peptides in beauty formulas took off in the early 2000s when researchers saw how short protein fragments could boost the look of aging skin. Pentapeptide-23 joined this group as chemists searched for stable, easy-to-blend peptides that give visible results without irritation.

It is created with a method called solid-phase peptide synthesis. Each amino acid is added one after another to a growing chain fixed on a resin bead. After the five amino acids are linked, the peptide is cut from the resin, then carefully purified and dried into a fine powder. Brands dissolve this powder in water or a light solvent, add a preservative and mix it into creams or serums.

You will mainly find Pentapeptide-23 in anti-aging serums, daily moisturizers, sheet masks, eye creams and leave-on treatments aimed at boosting skin smoothness or firmness.

Pentapeptide-23’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Pentapeptide-23 is prized for one key job in skin care: skin conditioning. By signaling skin cells to work more efficiently, it helps the overall appearance feel softer, look more even and appear more youthful. Formulators add it to give products a lightweight yet effective boost that can make skin look smoother and better hydrated over time.

Who Can Use Pentapeptide-23

Pentapeptide-23 suits most skin types including dry, oily, combination, normal and sensitive because it is lightweight and non-occlusive. It has a low likelihood of clogging pores or leaving a heavy film so even acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it.

The peptide is produced entirely in a lab without any animal-derived material which makes it appropriate for both vegans and vegetarians.

No research flags specific concerns for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, yet there are no long-term safety studies either. This information is not medical advice; expectant or nursing mothers should show any product containing Pentapeptide-23 to a qualified healthcare provider before use.

Pentapeptide-23 does not absorb UV light or make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not linked to photosensitivity. It can be layered with most common skincare actives and does not interfere with makeup wear.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Pentapeptide-23 vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is correctly formulated.

  • Mild redness or warmth shortly after application
  • Localized dryness if used with high concentrations of exfoliating acids
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to peptides or preservatives in the finished formula
  • Very rare breakout or congestion if the product base is overly rich for oily skin

If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Pentapeptide-23 is water soluble and used at very low levels, so it does not form an oily film or trap dead skin cells in pores. It lacks fatty acids, waxes or heavy silicones that typically raise comedogenicity, which is why it sits at the non-comedogenic end of the scale.

Because of this, products containing Pentapeptide-23 are generally suitable for skin that is prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

The only caveat is that the rest of the formula still matters; a peptide serum will stay breakout-friendly, while a thick cream loaded with rich oils might not.

Summary

Pentapeptide-23 is a lab-crafted chain of five amino acids that conditions skin by sending signals that encourage smoother texture, better hydration and a firmer look. Its small size lets it sit on the surface and nudge cells rather than acting as a heavy occlusive ingredient.

It is not a household name like retinol or vitamin C, but niche brands focused on peptide technology have started to feature it for people who want gentle anti-aging support without irritation.

Current data shows Pentapeptide-23 to be low risk with very few reported side effects, yet skin always has the final say. Perform a simple patch test when you try any new product that lists this peptide so you can enjoy the benefits with confidence.

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