Pentapeptide-45: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pentapeptide-45?

Pentapeptide-45 is a lab-crafted chain of five amino acids made up of alanine, glycine, phenylalanine and tyrosine. Peptides like this one gained popularity in skin care in the early 2000s when researchers discovered that small protein fragments could signal the skin to look and feel healthier. To create Pentapeptide-45, scientists combine its amino acids in a controlled reactor, check their sequence for purity, then stabilize the finished peptide so it can survive inside creams and serums.

Because it helps shield skin from everyday stressors, Pentapeptide-45 often appears in moisturizers, leave-on masks, anti-aging concentrates and daily protective lotions. Brands favor it for lightweight formulas where a non-greasy feel and gentle profile matter.

Pentapeptide-45’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

When added to a product, Pentapeptide-45 works mainly as a skin-protecting agent. It helps reinforce the skin’s surface so that pollution, changing weather and other external factors have a harder time weakening the barrier. A stronger barrier limits moisture loss and keeps skin looking smoother and more comfortable throughout the day.

Who Can Use Pentapeptide-45

Pentapeptide-45 is considered gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive skin because it is lightweight non-greasy and formulated to support the skin barrier rather than strip it. Those with very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still pay attention to the overall formula in case other ingredients present issues.

The peptide is made entirely in a lab with no animal-derived components so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current research shows no specific concerns for topical Pentapeptide-45 during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss any new skincare product with a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.

Pentapeptide-45 does not make skin more sensitive to the sun and can be used morning or night. It layers well with common actives such as niacinamide retinol and vitamin C without known conflicts.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Pentapeptide-45 differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and applied.

  • Temporary redness or flushing
  • Mild itching or tingling immediately after application
  • Localized dryness or tightness if used in an overly astringent formula
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to one of the supporting ingredients in the product

If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic)

Pentapeptide-45 is water soluble, used at very low levels and leaves no oily film so it does not block pores or trap dead skin cells. As a result it earns a solid zero on the comedogenic scale.

This makes the peptide generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts. Only the overall product texture and other ingredients would change that assessment.

Because peptides rely on a carrier formula, heavy plant butters or waxes paired with Pentapeptide-45 could still cause congestion in some users so check the full ingredient list when choosing a product.

Summary

Pentapeptide-45 is a lab made chain of five amino acids that acts as a skin protecting agent. It reinforces the surface so moisture stays in and environmental stress stays out, which helps the complexion look smooth and feel calm. The peptide achieves this by signaling the skin to strengthen its barrier proteins while offering a light cushioning layer against pollution.

Although not as famous as peptides like Matrixyl, it appears in a growing number of moisturizers and serums aimed at daily defense because brands value its gentle profile and compatibility with other actives.

Current evidence points to a very safe ingredient with a low risk of irritation or pore clogging. Still, everyone’s skin is different so it is wise to perform a quick patch test whenever trying a new product that features Pentapeptide-45.

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