What Is Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12?
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab-crafted lipopeptide made by linking a short chain of two amino acids to heptadecanoic acid then adding four carboxymethyl groups that are finally neutralized with sodium. The result is a water-soluble powder that mixes easily into modern skin care formulas. Created in the early 2010s by peptide specialists looking for a gentle way to control surface oil, it entered the market as a next-generation alternative to clays and harsh astringents. Production starts with solid-phase peptide synthesis, followed by fatty acid coupling and carboxymethylation, after which the material is purified and spray-dried. You will most often spot it in oil-control serums, mattifying moisturizers, lightweight gels, primers, sheet masks and leave-on treatments aimed at shine control for combination or acne-prone skin.
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Its main job in a formula is Anti-Sebum activity, meaning it helps curb excess sebum production at the skin’s surface. By dialing back oil it reduces unwanted shine, helps makeup stay put longer, supports clearer looking pores and leaves the complexion with a fresh velvety finish.
Who Can Use Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12
This peptide is most helpful for oily, combination and normal skin that struggles with midday shine. Dry or very dry complexions may find it a bit too oil absorbing and could notice tightness if used daily without an extra layer of moisture. The molecule is small and water soluble, so it tends to sit lightly on the skin making it a friendly option for those who identify as sensitive.
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12 is produced entirely in the lab from plant-derived amino acids and a fatty acid obtained from renewable botanical sources. No animal by-products are involved in its manufacture, meaning it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
The ingredient is not known to interfere with pregnancy or nursing when used topically and it does not penetrate deeply, but this is not medical advice. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals should run any skincare product past their doctor to be on the safe side.
The peptide does not trigger photosensitivity, so it can be applied morning or night without raising the risk of sunburn. It layers well with common actives like niacinamide or salicylic acid and has no known incompatibilities with sunscreen filters or makeup.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12 vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Transient dryness or a feeling of tight skin, especially in low humidity
- Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive areas
- Small, localized irritation if applied to broken or compromised skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already allergic to peptides or sodium salts, although this is rare
- Rebound oiliness if used excessively without adequate hydration, as sebaceous glands may overcompensate
If any discomfort, persistent redness or swelling occurs stop use immediately and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12 is highly water soluble, used at low percentages and lacks heavy oils or waxes that typically block pores, so it sits lightly on the skin and rinses away with normal cleansing. This makes it very unlikely to spark new blackheads or whiteheads. Formulas that pair it with rich butters or thick silicones could still clog pores, but the peptide itself is near non-comedogenic. Suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts.
As with any ingredient, overall comedogenicity depends on the full formula, application habits and how thoroughly the product is removed at the end of the day.
Summary
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12 is an oil-balancing lipopeptide that signals the skin to temper excess sebum, leaving a matte comfortable finish. By combining a short amino acid chain with a fatty tail it can interact with the outer layers of the skin, helping modulate sebocyte activity and reduce surface shine without harsh drying.
Adoption is growing, especially in Korean and Japanese gel moisturizers and in Western primer-style products aimed at midday shine control, yet it remains a niche alternative to long-standing actives like niacinamide or zinc PCA.
Current safety data show a low risk of irritation or pore blockage, making it suitable for most skin types. As with any new skincare ingredient, perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it to confirm personal compatibility.