What Is Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12?
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab made molecule formed when a small peptide, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12, is combined with five sodium salts of carboxymethyl groups. The result is a water loving powder that dissolves easily into serum or cream formulas. Because it is synthetic, makers can control its purity batch after batch which is key for skin care safety.
The peptide part of the ingredient is linked to palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps the molecule mingle with skin lipids while the carboxymethyl pieces boost its ability to stay stable in water. Chemists first explored this combo in the early 2000s while searching for gentle skin conditioning agents that could replace heavier oils. As testing showed it could soften skin without leaving a greasy feel, it started to appear in premium anti-aging lines.
Production starts with building the dipeptide from two amino acids in a controlled reactor. Palmitic acid is then attached to give the peptide a lipophilic tail. Finally, the carboxymethyl groups are added and neutralized with sodium to enhance solubility. After filtration and drying the fine white powder is ready for formulation.
Today you will find Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12 in lightweight moisturizers, firming serums, sheet masks and eye creams that aim to smooth texture and support the skin barrier. It is also blended into after-sun gels and hand treatments where a quick absorbing conditioner is valued.
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for one key role in skin care formulas.
Skin conditioning: It helps the outer layer of skin hold water and feel softer. The peptide structure supports natural proteins so skin can look plumper while the sodium salt form draws in moisture from the environment. Because it is lightweight it leaves a silky finish rather than an oily film which makes it suitable for both day and night products.
Who Can Use Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12
This peptide salt suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin because it is lightweight and water soluble. Many people with sensitive skin also tolerate it well since it is fragrance free and has a gentle pH, though individual reactions can always vary.
Vegans and vegetarians can feel comfortable with this ingredient. It is made entirely in the lab without any animal sourced material or animal testing in its standard supply chain.
Current data shows no specific risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in a rinse off or leave on product. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare choices with a qualified health professional for added peace of mind.
The molecule is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it does not make skin more likely to burn in the sun. Still daily sunscreen is important for overall skin health when using any conditioning or anti aging product.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12 can differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that could occur in rare cases. When the ingredient is used at the levels set by cosmetic chemists most users experience none of these issues.
- Mild redness or warmth at the application site
- Temporary itching or tingling during the first few uses
- Flaking if applied to skin that is already very dry or compromised
- Allergic contact dermatitis in people sensitive to peptides or sodium salts
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
Stop use right away and seek advice from a dermatologist or medical professional if any discomfort or reaction occurs
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5. Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12 is highly water soluble and has no oily or waxy components that could clog pores. Its molecular size is small enough to absorb but not so large that it sits on the surface and traps sebum. Because it lacks fatty esters or heavy silicones the chance of it blocking follicles is extremely low. This makes it a safe choice for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.
Formulators often pair it with lightweight gels or serums rather than thick creams which further keeps the overall product from feeling occlusive.
Summary
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Palmitoyl Dipeptide-12 is used mainly as a skin-conditioning agent that boosts moisture retention and leaves the surface feeling smooth. The peptide supports the skin’s natural proteins while the sodium carboxymethyl groups attract water, together helping skin appear plumper and more resilient without a greasy residue.
It shows up most often in mid to high end moisturizers, serums and eye creams. While not the hottest buzzword ingredient it has a steady following among formulators who want a reliable lightweight hydrator.
Current research and real-world use point to a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging when used at normal cosmetic levels. Still, skin is personal so it is smart to patch test any new product that contains this peptide salt to confirm compatibility.