Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate?

Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate is a specialty ester created by bonding a perfluorinated carbon chain to a modified grapeseed oil molecule. The grapeseed portion brings lightweight plant-based lipids while the perfluoro segment adds a slick, water-repelling surface. First explored in the early 2000s when brands looked for high-performance, non-greasy emollients, it soon found a place in prestige skin and hair care.

Manufacturers start with grapeseed oil collected from wine industry by-products, then split it into smaller glycol esters for better stability. These esters are reacted with a lab-made perfluorononyl unit under controlled heat and vacuum, producing a clear fluid that resists oxidation and has a silky slip. The finished ingredient is filtered, deodorized and quality-checked before blending into cosmetic bases.

You will most often spot Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate in lightweight facial moisturizers, anti-aging serums, leave-in hair treatments, shine sprays, cream foundations and sheet mask essences where a smooth feel and long-lasting conditioning effect are desired.

Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multi-tasking ester improves both the performance and sensory profile of beauty products.

  • Hair conditioning – forms a thin, even coating along the hair shaft that boosts gloss, tames frizz and helps protect against humidity without weighing strands down
  • Skin conditioning – leaves skin feeling velvety and hydrated, reduces transepidermal water loss and enhances the spreadability of creams and serums for a smoother application

Who Can Use Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate

This ester suits most skin types, including normal, dry and combination skin, because it delivers light moisture without leaving a heavy residue. Oily or acne-prone users can usually tolerate it as well, though some may prefer to monitor for any extra shine since it does form a breathable film on the surface.

The ingredient is synthesized from grapeseed oil and lab-made fluoro segments, with no animal-derived components, so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

There are no published concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at the low levels found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full product label to a qualified health professional before use just to be safe.

Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate is not known to cause photosensitivity and does not break down under sunlight, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also color-safe for treated hair and compatible with most styling polymers.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild skin redness or itching – a rare sensitivity to either the ester itself or other formula components
  • Follicular congestion – very oily skin may experience temporary clogged pores if the product is layered too heavily
  • Eye irritation – stinging or watering can occur if the product accidentally contacts the eyes, particularly in aerosol hair sprays
  • Build-up on fine hair – repeated use without adequate cleansing may leave a filmy feel on very fine strands

If any of these effects develop, stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5. Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate has a very low tendency to block pores because its fluorinated chain resists oxidation and the grapeseed-derived esters stay lightweight and spread thinly. It creates a breathable film rather than a sticky layer, so most users will not see an increase in blackheads or blemishes.

Suitable for acne-prone skin, though very oily users should still monitor shine if they layer multiple rich products.

Keep in mind that formulas often pair this ester with heavier butters or silicones; the overall product, not the single ingredient, ultimately determines clogging potential.

Summary

Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Grapeseedate works as a dual hair and skin conditioner. The grapeseed portion supplies light emollients that soften while the perfluoro tail adds slip, water resistance and a smooth finish. Together they boost spreadability, lock in moisture and leave hair glossy without weight.

It is a niche ingredient mainly seen in premium serums, leave-in sprays and hybrid makeup where a silky touch is prized, so it is not as common as classic oils or silicones but is slowly gaining traction with formulators who want a clean feel.

Current data shows it is safe at the low levels used in cosmetics, with only rare reports of mild irritation. As with any new product, do a quick patch test first to be certain your skin plays well with the full formula.

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