What Is Perillaldehyde?
Perillaldehyde is a naturally occurring aromatic compound found mainly in the essential oil of the perilla plant, a leafy herb used in Asian cooking. Chemically it is known as 1-Cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehyde, 4-(1-methylethenyl)-, a name that reflects its ring-shaped carbon structure with an attached aldehyde group responsible for its distinct scent. First isolated in the late 1800s when perfumers searched plant oils for new aromas, it soon appeared in fine fragrances thanks to its fresh herbal-citrus note. Modern production usually involves steam-distilling perilla leaves to obtain the crude oil, then separating and purifying perillaldehyde through fractional distillation. It can also be synthesized from limonene, a citrus-derived compound, for consistent quality.
In today’s cosmetics you will most often spot perillaldehyde in perfumes, body sprays, lotions, creams, face masks, shampoos and even some aftershaves where it lends a lifting green scent. Beyond fragrance, formulators sometimes include it in moisturizing or soothing products to give skin a subtle conditioned feel.
Perillaldehyde’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves more than one role in personal care formulas
- Fragrance – delivers a crisp, slightly minty citrus aroma that can brighten the overall scent profile of perfumes, body mists, cleansers and leave-on products
- Perfuming – helps mask less pleasant base odors in creams, gels and serums so the finished product smells inviting and elegant
- Skin Conditioning – provides a light emollient effect that can leave skin feeling smoother and softer after application
Who Can Use Perillaldehyde
Perillaldehyde works for most skin types including normal, dry, oily and combination because it is lightweight and does not clog pores. People with very sensitive or allergy-prone skin should approach it with caution since it is a fragrance component and fragrance molecules are a common trigger for irritation in that group.
The ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians because it is sourced from plant material or produced synthetically in a lab without the use of any animal-derived substances or animal testing where cruelty-free standards are followed.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women at the low concentrations used in cosmetics. That said this is not medical advice and those who are expecting or nursing should show the product to their doctor before adding it to their routine to be on the safe side.
Perillaldehyde does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not considered photosensitizing. It also has a very low risk of clogging pores which makes it a flexible option in both facial and body care formulas.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Perillaldehyde can vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential reactions that could occur, though most users will not experience any of them when the ingredient is correctly formulated in a product.
- Skin irritation – stinging, burning or mild discomfort shortly after application, more likely on compromised or very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis – redness, swelling or rash caused by an immune response to the fragrance molecule
- Itching or hives – localized or widespread itching that may appear with or without visible rash
- Sensitization over time – repeated exposure can make some individuals more reactive even if they tolerated the ingredient at first
- Eye irritation – watering or burning if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Respiratory discomfort from inhalation – coughing or throat irritation when using highly fragranced sprays in poorly ventilated areas
If any of these side effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Perillaldehyde is used at very low concentrations and has a light, volatile character that evaporates quickly rather than sitting on the skin. Because it is not an oily lipid or waxy butter it has little tendency to block pores.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.
As with any fragrant compound, irritation rather than pore clogging is the more common concern so those with reactive skin should keep usage minimal.
Summary
Perillaldehyde mainly gives products a fresh herbal-citrus scent, masks base odors and adds a mild skin-softening feel. It is not a headline ingredient but it shows up in a fair number of perfumes, lotions, cleansers and hair products where a green note is desired.
Overall safety data are favorable and adverse reactions are rare at the tiny doses used in cosmetics. Still, everyone’s skin is different so do a quick patch test when trying a new formula that contains it.