Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract?

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract comes from Phaeodactylum tricornutum, a microalga known as a diatom that lives in marine environments. The extract is naturally packed with water-binding polysaccharides, skin-friendly proteins, essential minerals, soothing lipids and antioxidant carotenoids such as fucoxanthin. Interest in this alga began in the 1960s within marine research circles, but it entered the beauty world only in recent years when sustainable algae farming made large-scale cultivation possible. To produce the cosmetic grade extract, the algae are grown in closed photobioreactors where light, nutrients and temperature are carefully controlled. After reaching peak growth the cells are harvested, gently broken and extracted with water or food-grade solvents. The resulting liquid is filtered, concentrated and often blended with glycerin or propanediol to keep the active compounds stable until they are mixed into a final formula. Thanks to its ability to boost moisture and calm the skin, you will see Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract in hydrating serums, daily moisturizers, anti-age creams, sheet masks, after-sun gels and products made for sensitive or stressed skin.

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This marine extract lends two key actions that improve both the feel and the look of a skincare product.

  • Humectant – attracts water from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin to the surface, helping skin stay plump, smooth and comfortable while reducing the tight feeling linked to dryness
  • Soothing – calms the look of redness and irritation, making formulas more suitable for sensitive, post-treatment or sun-exposed skin

Who Can Use Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract

This microalgae extract is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive because it hydrates without leaving a greasy film and helps calm visible redness. People with very oily or acne-prone skin usually tolerate it well as it is lightweight and non occlusive. Vegans and vegetarians can use it confidently since it is derived from algae and no animal-derived processing aids are required during manufacture. Current safety data show no specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, but this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products. The extract does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not considered photosensitising. It also pairs smoothly with most common actives such as niacinamide, vitamin C and retinoids, which makes formulating and layering easy.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract can vary from person to person. The following list covers potential issues yet these outcomes are uncommon when the ingredient is correctly formulated in a finished product.

  • Mild stinging or warming sensation
  • Temporary redness in highly reactive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to marine proteins
  • Eye irritation if applied too close to the lash line

If any adverse effect occurs stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0–1 (essentially non comedogenic). Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract is largely made up of water soluble polysaccharides, minerals and light proteins rather than heavy oils or waxes that tend to block pores. It is used at low levels, absorbs quickly and leaves no occlusive film so the chance of pore congestion is minimal.

Suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts.

No evidence links the extract to increased sebum production or the growth of acne-causing bacteria, though the overall pore friendliness of a product still depends on the other ingredients in the formula.

Summary

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract serves mainly as a humectant and a soothing agent. Its natural sugars pull moisture into the outer skin layers for a plumper feel while its lipids, minerals and carotenoids help calm visible redness and dryness related discomfort. The result is skin that feels hydrated, smooth and comfortable.

Interest in the extract is rising alongside the wider trend for marine sourced actives, yet it remains a niche alternative to staples like hyaluronic acid so it is not in every product on the shelf.

Available safety data show a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging, making it broadly safe for daily use. Still, performing a quick patch test when you first try any formula containing it is a smart precaution, especially if your skin is sensitive.

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