Pholiota Microspora Polysaccharides: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pholiota Microspora Polysaccharides?

Pholiota microspora polysaccharides are long-chain sugars extracted from the edible mushroom better known as Nameko. These naturally occurring carbohydrates are valued for their ability to bind water and form a light, cushioning film on the skin. The cosmetic world first looked to mushroom-derived polysaccharides in the 1990s when Asian skincare brands explored botanical hydrators as alternatives to petroleum-based moisturizers. Today the ingredient is obtained through a gentle hot-water extraction of the dried mushroom, followed by filtration and purification to isolate the polysaccharide fraction. The resulting powder dissolves easily in water so formulators can blend it into serums, lotions and masks without heavy processing.

You will most often see Pholiota microspora polysaccharides in hydrating sheet masks, soothing gels, lightweight anti-aging creams and after-sun treatments where a non-greasy moisture boost is desired.

Pholiota Microspora Polysaccharides’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This mushroom-derived ingredient pulls double duty by hydrating the skin and improving overall feel in a formula.

  • Humectant – attracts and holds moisture from the environment, helping skin stay plump and comfortable throughout the day
  • Skin conditioning – forms a breathable film that smooths texture, leaving the surface soft and supple while supporting the skin barrier
  • Emollient – fills in microscopic gaps between skin cells to create a silky finish without heaviness, improving spreadability of creams and serums

Who Can Use Pholiota Microspora Polysaccharides

This mushroom extract is considered gentle enough for most skin types. Dry or dehydrated skin will appreciate its water-binding talent, while sensitive complexions tend to tolerate it well because it is non fragranced and low in irritants. Oily or combination skin can also benefit since the finish is light and non greasy.

The ingredient comes from an edible fungus, not from animals, so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian values. No animal by-products are involved in its harvesting or processing.

Current research shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at the low levels found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should have a quick word with a healthcare professional before adding new products, just to be safe.

Pholiota microspora polysaccharides do not absorb UV light and are not known to make skin more sensitive to the sun, so there is no extra risk of photosensitivity. It also plays nicely with other common skincare actives, with no notable incompatibilities reported.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can vary from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet uncommon when Pholiota microspora polysaccharides are correctly formulated in a product.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very reactive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to mushrooms or mushroom-derived ingredients
  • Transient stickiness if used at high concentrations, which can be mistaken for irritation

Discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if you notice persistent discomfort or an allergic response after applying a product containing this ingredient.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Pholiota microspora polysaccharides are large water-soluble molecules that sit on the surface of the skin rather than creeping into pores, contain no oils or waxes and do not feed acne-causing bacteria. All of this places them at the very bottom of the comedogenic scale. Because of that low rating the ingredient is generally considered suitable for those who are prone to breakouts.

No data suggest that it worsens blackheads or whiteheads, even when layered with lightweight oils or silicones, though overall formula composition can still affect how any finished product behaves.

Summary

Pholiota microspora polysaccharides act as a humectant, skin conditioner and emollient. They pull moisture from the air and lock it next to the skin, form a thin breathable film that smooths texture, and slip into tiny gaps between skin cells to give lotions a silky glide. All of this is achieved without heaviness because the ingredient is entirely water-based.

Mushroom extracts have been trending in Asian skincare for decades but this particular species remains a quiet achiever rather than a headline act. You will mainly spot it in hydrating masks, soothing gels and select K-beauty creams.

Current research labels it low risk with rare reports of irritation limited to those who already know they are sensitive to mushrooms. As always, whenever you pick up a new product give it a quick patch test first so your skin can decide if it is a match.

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