What Is Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate?
Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a plant-derived ester made by linking plant sterols, behenyl alcohol and a dimer of linoleic acid. The plant sterols usually come from soy or vegetable oil, behenyl alcohol is sourced from rapeseed oil and linoleic acid is the fatty acid found in many seed oils such as safflower or sunflower. Chemists combine these raw materials through an esterification process that joins the fatty acid dimer to the sterols and behenyl alcohol, creating a waxy, butter-like ingredient that melts at skin temperature.
This type of complex ester first appeared in the late 1990s when formulators looked for richer yet non-greasy alternatives to petrolatum. Its similarity to skin lipids made it popular in premium skincare and haircare where a soft, cushiony feel was prized. Today the ingredient is produced on a commercial scale in specialized facilities that carefully control temperature and vacuum to drive the esterification reaction and then filter and purify the final wax.
You will most often spot Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate in moisturizing creams, anti-aging serums, overnight masks, hair conditioning treatments, lipstick bases and sunscreens where it lends a smooth, velvety texture while helping stabilize the formula.
Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ester brings several useful qualities to both skin and hair products:
- Hair conditioning – coats the hair shaft to reduce friction, makes strands feel softer and helps tame frizz for easier combing and a smoother finish
- Skin conditioning – mimics natural skin lipids to reinforce the surface barrier, lock in moisture and leave a supple, nourished after-feel without heaviness
- Viscosity controlling – thickens oil phases and stabilizes emulsions so creams, balms and gels maintain a pleasing consistency through temperature swings and over shelf life
Who Can Use Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
This silky ester is generally well tolerated by all skin types, from dry and mature to normal and combination. Oily or acne-prone skin can also use it because the ingredient is lightweight and nonocclusive, though extremely blemish-prone users may still prefer minimal amounts to avoid a heavy feel.
Because it is sourced from plants and contains no animal by-products, Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
No research indicates any danger for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is applied to skin or hair. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before starting a new product just to be safe.
The ester does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. It also plays well with typical cosmetic actives and preservatives, making it a flexible option in most routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects but most users experience none of them when the ingredient is used in well-made products.
- Skin irritation – rare mild redness or itching, usually in very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis – extremely uncommon but possible in people allergic to plant sterols
- Clogged pores – possible slight increase in comedones for those already prone to breakouts if large amounts are used
- Eye discomfort – temporary stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Hair buildup – a weighed-down feel when used daily in heavy leave-ins on fine hair
If any persistent redness, itching or swelling occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
This ester is lightweight and melts at skin temperature so it spreads thinly rather than sitting in thick layers that can block pores. Its structure is closer to the skin’s own lipids which helps it absorb instead of piling up. For most users, that means a very low chance of triggering whiteheads or blackheads.
Acne-prone or oily skin types can usually use products containing Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate without trouble, though very heavy formulas that combine it with richer oils may still feel too occlusive for some.
Keep in mind that concentration matters. A small percentage in a light lotion is far less likely to cause problems than a dense balm loaded with many waxes and butters.
Summary
Phytosteryl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate conditions skin and hair while also thickening formulas. It softens strands by coating the cuticle, reinforces the skin barrier by mimicking natural lipids and adds body to creams so they stay stable across temperatures.
Although not as famous as ingredients like shea butter or silicone, it has a solid following in mid to high-end skin care, hair masks and lip products where a plush feel is desired without a greasy finish.
Current safety data show it is non-irritating, non-sensitizing and safe for all ages and stages of life when used as intended. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product to make sure it agrees with you.