What Is Polyester-22?
Polyester-22 is a man-made polymer created when octyldodecanol, dimer dilinoleyl alcohol, succinic acid and bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) seed oil are reacted together under heat and vacuum. The result is a large ester molecule that behaves like a silky oil yet stays stable in water-based formulas. Although the building blocks sound technical most are plant derived, which helps brands position the ingredient as a more nature-friendly alternative to purely petrochemical emollients.
The material started appearing in cosmetic labs in the early 2000s as chemists searched for lightweight oils that leave less greasiness on skin. Its rise matched consumer demand for fast-absorbing moisturizers and long-wear makeup that still feel comfortable. Today Polyester-22 is produced in specialty facilities where the raw fatty alcohols and acids are blended, heated then cooled to form uniform pellets or viscous liquid ready for use in beauty products.
You will most often see Polyester-22 in moisturizers, anti-aging creams, masks, foundations, lipsticks and hair conditioners where it improves spreadability and gives a soft after-feel.
Polyester-22’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas Polyester-22 acts as an emollient. This means it fills tiny gaps in the skin’s surface, creating a smooth protective layer that helps trap moisture. The skin feels softer, looks more supple and makeup glides on more evenly. Because the molecule is large it tends to stay on the surface rather than sinking too deeply, delivering lasting softness without a heavy or greasy finish.
Who Can Use Polyester-22
Because Polyester-22 is lightweight yet still nourishing it suits most skin types including normal, dry and combination. Oily or acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it as well thanks to its non-greasy finish though those extremely prone to clogged pores may prefer to monitor how their skin responds in richer formulas.
The ingredient is synthesized from plant-derived fatty alcohols and bilberry seed oil rather than animal sources so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Polyester-22 is used topically at the levels found in cosmetics. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should have their healthcare provider review all skincare products to be extra safe.
Polyester-22 is not known to cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daily sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can vary from person to person. The following points outline potential side effects linked to topical use of Polyester-22 but they remain uncommon when the ingredient is formulated correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in sensitive individuals
- Contact allergy resulting in a rash for those allergic to one of the raw materials
- Temporary clogged pores or breakouts if used in very heavy formulations on highly blemish-prone skin
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any irritation or other adverse effect occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Polyester-22 is a large branched ester that tends to sit on the skin’s surface rather than seeping into pores. Its lightweight cushioned feel means it is far less likely to trap dead skin cells or sebum compared with heavier oils. Most users, even those who break out easily, find it does not trigger blemishes when used in balanced formulas. Only in very rich products or if layered with multiple occlusive ingredients might it pose a minor clogging risk.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.
Formulation level matters: the higher the concentration and the more waxes or butters present alongside it, the greater the chance of congestion. Always look at the full ingredient list to judge overall pore friendliness.
Summary
Polyester-22 works mainly as an emollient that smooths rough patches seals in moisture and leaves a silky non-greasy finish. Its large molecular structure lets it coat skin and hair evenly improving spreadability and enhancing the sensory feel of creams makeup and conditioners.
While not as famous as classics like jojoba oil or dimethicone it has carved out a steady niche in modern lightweight moisturizers long-wear foundations and lip products where a soft cushiony feel is prized.
Current research shows it to be low risk with irritation or allergy very uncommon. Still every skin is unique so patch testing any new product that contains Polyester-22 is a smart move.