What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate is a plant-derived blend of mono, di and triglycerides made from two long-chain dicarboxylic acids, eicosanedioic acid and tetradecanedioic acid, attached to a backbone of ten linked glycerin units. The raw materials usually start with vegetable oils, which supply glycerin, and renewable fatty acids that are further processed to form the dicarboxylic acids. Through an esterification step performed at controlled heat and vacuum, chemists bond the acids to the polyglycerin chain, creating a mild, water-dispersible ingredient with a soft, silky feel.
The use of polyglycerin esters in beauty goods took off in the 1990s as formulators looked for plant-based alternatives to petroleum-sourced emulsifiers. As the clean beauty trend grew, blends like Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate gained popularity for their gentle profile and ability to boost skin and hair feel without heaviness. Today it shows up in leave-on conditioners, lightweight moisturizers, sheet masks, hydrating serums, anti-aging creams and rinse-off hair masks where a smooth, conditioned finish is desired.
Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient offers two main benefits that enhance everyday beauty formulas
- Hair conditioning: Forms a thin, flexible film along the hair shaft that helps detangle, adds slip during wet combing and leaves strands softer and more manageable after drying
- Skin conditioning: Smooths the skin surface, reducing rough texture, while delivering a lightweight, non-greasy feel that supports long-lasting moisture
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate
This conditioning ester is gentle enough for most skin types, including dry, normal, oily and sensitive, because it sits on the surface and helps smooth without stripping natural moisture. Extremely oil-prone users may prefer lightweight formulas that include it at a lower level, but the ingredient itself has a very low likelihood of clogging pores.
Because it is produced from plant-derived glycerin and renewable fatty acids, it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are involved in its sourcing or manufacturing.
The ingredient is generally regarded as safe for pregnant or breastfeeding women when used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to a healthcare professional before use to be extra cautious.
Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more reactive to the sun. It is also color-safe for dyed hair and plays well with most other common skincare and haircare ingredients.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in finished products.
- Mild redness or stinging in very sensitized skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis for those with specific sensitivities to polyglycerin esters
- Temporary clogged pores if applied in a very rich formula on acne-prone areas
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any discomfort or unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 – Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate has a very low tendency to block pores. Its large, water-dispersible structure sits mainly on the surface and is easily rinsed away, so it is far less occlusive than heavier plant oils or waxes. This makes it generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin when used within well-balanced formulas. Because it is an ester rather than a pure fatty acid there is minimal free oil available to feed acne-causing bacteria, further lowering the risk of congestion.
Formulators often pair it with lightweight humectants and non-comedogenic emollients, which keeps the final product friendly to oily or combination skin types.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate is a plant-derived conditioning ester that smooths hair and softens skin by forming a thin flexible film that locks in lightweight moisture without greasy residue. Its dual performance lets brands streamline formulas, replacing separate slip agents or heavier oils.
While not yet a household name it is gaining steady traction in clean beauty moisturizers, leave-in conditioners, sheet masks and lightweight serums because it offers a silky feel and a vegan backstory that resonates with ingredient-savvy shoppers.
Safety data and real-world use show a low irritation and comedogenic profile, making it a dependable choice for most users. As with any new cosmetic ingredient performing a small patch test before full application is a smart way to rule out personal sensitivities.