What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate is a plant derived ingredient created by joining decaglycerol, which is a chain of ten glycerin units, with three units of isostearic acid, a fatty acid usually sourced from vegetable oils like rapeseed or coconut. The result is a triester that combines the water loving nature of glycerin with the oil loving nature of fatty acids, giving it useful surface activity in skin care formulas.
This molecule emerged in the early 2000s when formulators began searching for gentle alternatives to traditional synthetic surfactants. By modifying naturally occurring glycerin and fatty acids chemists crafted an ingredient that cleans effectively yet feels mild on skin, making it popular in products that aim for a more “green” label.
To produce it, manufacturers first obtain vegetable based glycerin, link ten of those units together under controlled heat then react the decaglycerol with purified isostearic acid. The process, called esterification, removes water and bonds the two components into a stable triester. The finished ingredient appears as a clear to pale yellow liquid that blends easily with oils and waxes.
You will most often spot Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate in cleansing oils, balm cleansers, makeup removers, micellar waters, creamy face washes, sunscreens, tinted moisturizers and lipsticks. In these products it helps bind oil and water so makeup, sunscreen and everyday grime rinse away without leaving a greasy feel.
Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care and makeup the main job of Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate is cleansing.
As a cleansing agent it acts like a magnet that grabs onto both oil and water. When you massage a product containing it over your face the ingredient loosens makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum then turns milky upon contact with water so everything can rinse off in one step. Because it is derived from glycerin and fatty acids it tends to leave skin feeling soft rather than stripped which is why many formulators choose it for gentle daily cleansers and balm textures.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate
Thanks to its mild cleansing action Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate suits almost every skin type. Dry and sensitive skin typically appreciate the soft after-feel while combination and oily skin benefit from its ability to lift excess sebum without leaving a film. Extremely acne-prone users who react to any fatty ingredient might prefer lighter surfactants, but most will find this triester non-pore-clogging when rinsed thoroughly.
The ingredient is produced from vegetable glycerin and plant-sourced isostearic acid, so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived materials are involved in its standard manufacture.
Current research shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate is applied topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare professional to be sure they fit personal needs.
Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be used day or night without extra risk of sun reaction.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses vary, so the following covers potential side effects that could appear with topical use of Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate even though most people will not encounter them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or stinging if skin is already compromised or very sensitive
- Temporary eye irritation if the cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in users who have a specific sensitivity to glycerin derivatives or fatty acids
- Breakouts in a small number of highly acne-prone individuals if product residue is not fully rinsed
If you experience any of the above stop using the product and seek guidance from a dermatologist or healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate is built from glycerin chains and a branched fatty acid that prefers to sit at the oil–water interface rather than sink into pores. Because it functions mainly as an emulsifier that rinses away with water, very little residue is left behind. Most formulators consider it non-pore-clogging even in balm textures, so it is generally suitable for skin prone to acne or breakouts. Only exceedingly sensitive or occlusion-reactive skin types might notice issues when the product is not removed completely.
Its low clogging potential also makes it a useful alternative to heavier esters or mineral oil in cleansing oils aimed at breakout-prone users.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate is a plant-derived cleansing agent that latches onto both oil and water, breaks up makeup, sunscreen and sebum then turns milky so everything washes off without stripping the skin. Its dual nature comes from a chain of ten glycerin units that love water joined to three isostearic acid units that love oil, giving it strong yet gentle surface activity.
You will spot it most often in Asian cleansing oils and balm cleansers, though it is slowly gaining ground in Western formulas as brands look for mild vegan alternatives to traditional surfactants. Safety data and long consumer use show a very low risk of irritation or clogging for most people. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that features this ingredient before adding it to a daily routine.