What Is Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrabehenate/Macadamiate/Sebacate?
Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrabehenate/Macadamiate/Sebacate is a plant-derived ingredient made by linking glycerin molecules into a short chain then attaching them to a blend of fatty acids from behenic acid (often from rapeseed), sebacic acid (from castor oil) and macadamia oil. The result is a lightweight wax-like ester that feels smooth and non-greasy on skin. Chemists began exploring this family of esters in the early 2000s as a natural alternative to mineral oil and silicones. By tweaking the fatty acids and the length of the glycerin backbone they created versions that melt at skin temperature and spread easily in creams. This particular ester is produced in a controlled reaction where the glycerin dimer is heated with the three fatty acids in the presence of a catalyst then purified to remove free acids and water. You will come across it in moisturizers, balms, face masks, lipsticks, solid cleansing bars and anti-aging creams where it lends a soft silky touch and helps lock in moisture.
Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrabehenate/Macadamiate/Sebacate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this ingredient plays one key role.
As an emollient it fills tiny gaps in the skin surface smoothing rough areas and reducing moisture loss so skin feels softer and looks more supple. It also improves the spreadability of creams which helps active ingredients apply evenly and leaves a pleasant non-sticky afterfeel.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrabehenate/Macadamiate/Sebacate?
This emollient suits most skin types including dry, normal and combination skin because it mimics the skin’s own lipids without feeling heavy. Oily or acne-prone complexions can usually tolerate it as its texture is light and its comedogenic rating is low, yet those extremely prone to breakouts may prefer to use it sparingly and monitor how their skin responds.
Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrabehenate/Macadamiate/Sebacate is made from plant-derived fatty acids and glycerin so it is suitable for vegetarians and vegans provided the finished product contains no animal-based additives.
There is no evidence that this ingredient poses a specific risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Because individual circumstances vary this is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing women should ask a healthcare professional before starting any new skincare product.
The ester does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also fragrance-free and unlikely to interfere with actives such as vitamin C or retinoids in the same formula.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrabehenate/Macadamiate/Sebacate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues but they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as intended.
- Mild irritation – rare transient redness or stinging, typically in those with highly sensitive skin
- Contact allergy – very uncommon itching or rash in individuals allergic to one of the fatty acids used to make the ester
- Clogged pores – possible if used in very rich formulas on skin that is extremely oil-prone
If any discomfort or visible reaction develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
This ester is a large bulky molecule that tends to sit on the surface rather than seeping into pores and it contains a balanced mix of long chain fatty acids that are not strongly pore clogging. In routine formulations it is used at low percentages and leaves a lightweight finish which further lowers the risk of congestion.
Because of its low rating most acne-prone users can generally tolerate it without an uptick in breakouts.
Keep in mind that overall formula design matters; when this ester is blended with heavier oils or butters the final product could feel richer and might not suit very oily skin.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrabehenate/Macadamiate/Sebacate is mainly an emollient that smooths rough patches locks in moisture and improves the glide of creams and balms. It does this by filling microscopic gaps on the skin surface and forming a thin flexible layer that slows water loss while lending a silky touch.
It is not yet a household name but its plant origin and pleasant feel are making it increasingly popular in clean beauty lines seeking alternatives to silicones and petrolatum.
Current data shows it is low risk for irritation or sensitization so it is considered safe for everyday use. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a product first to make sure your individual skin agrees with it.