What Is Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate?
Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate is a plant-derived ester made by linking a vegetable-based poly-glycerin backbone with fatty acids that come mainly from behenic acid and hydroxystearic acid. The result is a waxy, surfactant-like material that is both oil-loving and water-loving, which explains its multitasking role in cosmetics.
The idea of pairing polyglycerin with fatty acids started gaining ground in the early 2000s when brands began looking for milder, more sustainable options to replace petroleum-heavy surfactants and thickeners. Chemists discovered that by choosing a high glycerin count—twenty units in this case—they could create a gentle yet effective ingredient that meets modern “green chemistry” goals.
Manufacturing involves heating glycerin under vacuum to form polyglycerin-20, then performing an esterification reaction with purified behenic and hydroxystearic acids. No harsh solvents are needed, and the process often uses food-grade catalysts, which keeps the final material suitable for sensitive skin formulas.
You will typically find Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate in creamy facial cleansers, lightweight moisturizers, clay or sheet masks, sun care products and makeup such as foundations or BB creams where it helps blend pigments evenly.
Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile ingredient improves both the feel and performance of many beauty products.
- Cleansing: Its amphiphilic structure lifts away dirt, oil and leftover makeup without stripping natural moisture, making formulas gentler than those with traditional sulfates
- Emulsifying: It binds water and oil into a stable mixture so creams stay smooth, do not separate and deliver ingredients evenly with each use
- Viscosity controlling: By thickening watery blends into silky lotions or gels it helps brands reach the perfect texture that spreads easily yet feels rich
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate
This ingredient is considered gentle enough for nearly every skin type. Dry, sensitive and mature complexions appreciate its moisture-locking feel while normal and combination skin benefit from its light, non-greasy finish. Even oily or acne-prone users usually tolerate it well though very high levels in a formula might feel heavy on excessively oily skin.
Because it is produced from plant glycerin and vegetable fatty acids it suits both vegans and vegetarians, with no animal by-products involved in the manufacturing process.
No studies link Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate to hormonal effects or developmental risks so pregnant or breastfeeding women can generally use products containing it. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should still check with a doctor before adding new skincare.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known issues with daytime use alongside sunscreen.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate differ from person to person. The points below cover possible downsides but most people will not notice any trouble when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in very sensitive users
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis if someone is reactive to one of the fatty acid residues
- Temporary stinging if a high concentration gets into the eyes
- Potential for pore congestion when used in very heavy products on highly acne-prone skin
If any discomfort, rash or persistent clogging develops stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
The bulky polyglycerin backbone makes this ester more water-friendly than plain fatty acids so it is less likely to lodge in pores. While the behenic and hydroxystearic parts do have an oily nature, their long chain length means they sit on the surface rather than sinking deeply into follicular openings. In well balanced formulas the ingredient rarely causes blackheads or whiteheads.
Suitable for most acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, though extremely oily users may prefer lighter textures if this ester appears high on the ingredient list.
The overall comedogenic risk also depends on the entire product matrix: pairing it with lightweight silicones or glycols keeps the finish breathable while heavy butters could tip the scale toward congestion.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Hydroxystearate acts as a gentle cleanser, reliable emulsifier and mild thickener by combining a twenty-unit glycerin backbone that loves water with plant fatty acids that love oil. This dual nature lets it lift grime, hold oil-and-water mixtures together and fine tune the feel of creams all in one step.
It is not among the most talked-about ingredients yet formulators appreciate its green origin and multitasking ability, so you will see it show up quietly in cleansers, lightweight lotions, masks and makeup bases.
Current safety data shows a low risk of irritation, toxicity or hormonal impact making it a comfortable choice for nearly all skin types. As with any new skincare product it is smart to patch test first to be sure your skin agrees with the full formula.