What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate?
Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking three glycerin molecules to hydroxystearic acid, a fatty acid usually sourced from castor or other vegetable oils. The result is a diester that combines the skin-friendly nature of glycerin with the buttery feel of fatty acids. It emerged in the 1990s when formulators were searching for gentle alternatives to petroleum-based emulsifiers. Through a controlled esterification process, glycerin is first polymerized into polyglycerin-3, then reacted with hydroxystearic acid under heat and vacuum. The final material is biodegradable, PEG-free and suitable for natural or synthetic formulations alike.
You will most often spot Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate in creamy or balm-like products where a stable oil-in-water texture is needed. These include moisturizers, makeup foundations, BB creams, cleansing balms, sunscreens, baby lotions, body butters and rich overnight masks. Its multitasking nature lets brands streamline ingredient lists while still delivering a luxurious feel.
Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Here is how this ingredient improves both product performance and the feel on your skin
- Skin conditioning: forms a soft, protective film that helps skin stay hydrated, leaving it feeling smooth and comfortable
- Emollient: adds a silky glide to creams and balms, filling in microscopic gaps on the skin surface so it feels supple rather than rough
- Cleansing: lifts away makeup and excess sebum when used in cleansing oils or balms, breaking them down so they rinse off easily without stripping skin
- Emulsifying: binds water and oil into a uniform cream or lotion, preventing separation and giving the formula long-term stability
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate
Because it is gentle and non-sensitizing Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate works for most skin types, including dry, normal and sensitive skin. Its fatty acid backbone helps soften rough patches yet does not leave a greasy residue, making it generally acceptable for combination skin too. Extremely oily or acne-prone users might find rich formulas that rely on this emulsifier feel a bit heavy, but the ingredient itself is not considered highly pore-clogging.
The material is produced from vegetable glycerin and plant-derived hydroxystearic acid, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal derivatives or by-products are used during its manufacture.
Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns, so products containing Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate are usually viewed as safe for pregnant or breastfeeding individuals. This is not medical advice; anyone who is expecting or nursing should confirm product choices with a qualified healthcare provider.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with common actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids. It can be layered with sunscreen or makeup without altering their effectiveness.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient differ from person to person. The issues below are possible yet uncommon when Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate is used at normal levels in well-formulated products.
- Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
- Isolated cases of contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to castor-derived fatty acids
- Clogged pores or small breakouts if used in heavy formulas on highly oily skin
- Transient eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any discomfort or persistent reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional or licensed dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate contains fatty acid chains that give slip yet it is highly water dispersible, so it tends to rinse or absorb without leaving an occlusive film that traps debris in pores. Studies and industry reports list it as low risk for clogging, which is why it earns a 1 rather than a 0. The small chance of congestion usually relates to very rich balms where the overall oil load is high, not the emulsifier itself.
Suitable for most acne-prone users, although extremely oily skins may prefer lighter textures that use different emulsifiers.
Keep in mind that comedogenicity depends on the complete formula, the amount used and individual skin tolerance, so a product containing this ingredient can still feel heavy if paired with thick butters or waxes.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate works as a skin conditioner, emollient, cleanser and emulsifier. Its polyglycerin backbone attracts water while its hydroxystearic acid portion bonds with oils, allowing it to smooth rough spots, lift makeup and bind oil with water into a consistent cream that resists separating.
It is moderately popular, especially in natural and clean beauty lines that want a plant based alternative to PEG surfactants, but it is not as widely recognized as classic emulsifiers like glyceryl stearate.
Overall safety data are strong with a low irritation and sensitization profile. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a quick patch test before full use to confirm personal compatibility.