What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate?
Polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking three glycerin molecules and then attaching two capric acid (a fatty acid from coconut or palm kernel oil) chains. The result is a mild surfactant that is both water-loving and oil-loving, which makes it ideal for blending the two phases of a formula. First explored in the 1990s as brands looked for alternatives to petroleum-based emulsifiers, it rose in popularity when consumers began asking for greener and more skin-friendly options.
Manufacturers produce polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate through a process called esterification. Glycerin is heated so its molecules join into short chains, then these chains react with purified capric acid. No harsh solvents are needed, and the final material is biodegradable.
You will most often see polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate in moisturizers, lightweight lotions, cleansing balms, sheet mask essences and baby care products where a gentle feel is important. It is also common in natural or organic certified formulas because it aligns with clean beauty standards.
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient delivers a single yet vital function in skincare formulas.
Emulsifying: By helping oil and water mix evenly, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate creates stable, smooth products that do not separate on the shelf. A well-built emulsion spreads easily, feels lightweight and ensures that active ingredients are distributed uniformly each time you apply the product.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate
This gentle emulsifier is generally considered suitable for all skin types, including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin, because it has a light skin feel and is not known to clog pores or disturb the skin barrier.
It is sourced from plant oils so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived substances or by-products are used during production.
Pregnant or breastfeeding users can typically use products containing polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate since it stays on the surface of the skin and does not penetrate deeply. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a healthcare professional just to be safe.
The ingredient does not cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also fragrance-free and free of common allergens like gluten or soy, making it a low-risk option for those with multiple sensitivities.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at the concentrations typically found in cosmetics.
- Mild redness or irritation
- Temporary stinging on very compromised or broken skin
- Contact allergy in individuals with a specific sensitivity to glycerin derivatives
If irritation or any other negative reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 (very low)
Polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate is derived from lightweight fatty acids and glycerin, both of which rinse or absorb without leaving an occlusive film. Its molecular structure makes it more water-soluble than many traditional emulsifiers so it is unlikely to trap oil or debris inside pores. Because of this low tendency to clog, it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Formulas that pair it with heavy butters or waxes could still pose a risk, so always look at the overall product.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate is a plant-based emulsifier that keeps oil and water blended, stabilises textures and helps active ingredients spread evenly. It performs these tasks by using its dual-affinity molecular structure: the glycerin backbone stays comfortable with water while the capric acid tails link to oils, locking the two phases together.
Although it is not the most buzzworthy ingredient on social media, it has steady popularity among formulators who need a mild eco-friendly alternative to traditional surfactants. You will spot it most often in moisturisers, lightweight lotions and sensitive-skin products.
Current research and decades of use show it is safe for nearly all users, with a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new skincare product, give your skin a quick patch test first to make sure it agrees with you.