What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate?
Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate is a plant-derived ingredient created by joining lauric acid with polyglycerin-3. Lauric acid is a fatty acid most commonly sourced from coconut or palm oil, while polyglycerin-3 comes from the simple sugar alcohol glycerin. When chemists combine these two building blocks they form a diester that behaves like a mild surfactant and emulsifier.
The push for gentler greener alternatives to traditional petrochemical surfactants in the late 1990s opened the door for polyglyceryl esters. Manufacturers liked that these materials could be produced from renewable feedstocks and had a good safety profile. Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate soon found its way into natural and clean beauty lines looking for plant-based emulsifiers.
Production starts with glycerin, which is heated under alkaline conditions to create short chains of three glycerin units, known as polyglycerin-3. This is then reacted with lauric acid in the presence of a catalyst, removing water and forming ester bonds. The result is a waxy substance that disperses well in warm water and oil.
Because of its dual water-loving and oil-loving nature, this ingredient shows up in facial cleansers, cream and milk cleansers, lightweight moisturizers, makeup removers, sheet mask essences, baby care products and some hair conditioners. Formulators appreciate its ability to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions without leaving a heavy residue.
Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile material brings two main functions to a formula
- Cleansing: Its surfactant properties help lift away dirt, excess oil and makeup while keeping the skin feel soft and comfortable. It creates a gentle foam or milk that rinses easily which makes it ideal for sensitive skin cleansers
- Emulsifying: By sitting at the interface between oil and water phases it keeps creams, lotions and liquid cleansers from separating. A stable emulsion improves product texture, ensures consistent delivery of active ingredients and lengthens shelf life
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate
Thanks to its mild nature Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate suits most skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin. It cleanses without stripping and stabilizes lightweight emulsions so it rarely feels greasy or occlusive. Very acne-prone users who react to any fatty ingredient may prefer to trial it in a lighter formula first, but on the whole it is considered low risk for breakouts.
The ingredient is made from plant sources, typically coconut or palm oil plus glycerin from vegetable feedstocks, so it is acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. Formulators should confirm the specific supply chain is free of animal derivatives or processing aids if strict vegan certification is required.
Available safety data shows no reproductive or developmental concerns, so products containing Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate are generally viewed as safe for pregnant or breastfeeding women. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before introducing new skincare just to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate is not known to cause photosensitivity and does not make skin more prone to sunburn. Normal daily sun protection practices are still recommended because other formula components or environmental factors may affect the skin.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects yet these outcomes are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished cosmetic product.
- Mild skin irritation – very sensitive individuals may notice temporary redness or stinging
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but possible if someone is specifically allergic to coconut or palm derived fatty acids
- Eye discomfort – if a cleanser containing the ingredient is not thoroughly rinsed it can cause transient eye sting or watering
- Breakouts in extremely acne-prone skin – heavier cream formulas that include multiple fatty ingredients may trigger clogged pores in susceptible users
If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional for advice.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 – low likelihood of clogging pores. Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate is an ester that is partly water soluble so it spreads lightly on skin and rinses away more easily than straight fatty acids or rich plant oils. Its structure reduces the heavy, waxy feel typically linked with higher comedogenic scores. The lauric acid portion does have some pore-clogging potential but once it is bound to polyglycerin it becomes less occlusive which is why most experts place it near the bottom of the scale.
Suitable for acne-prone users in most rinse-off and lightweight leave-on formulas.
Formulas that pair this ingredient with large amounts of butters or waxes may still feel heavy, so the total recipe matters more than the single component.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate works as a gentle cleanser and reliable emulsifier. Its molecule has a water loving side from polyglycerin and an oil loving side from lauric acid, allowing it to lift dirt and oil while holding water and oil phases together in stable creams or milky washes.
The ingredient enjoys steady use in natural beauty lines, baby care and sensitive skin products, though it has not reached the mainstream fame of classic surfactants or emulsifiers found in every drugstore lotion.
Current safety data shows it to be non irritating for most people with a very low comedogenic score and no major health flags. As with any new skincare addition a simple patch test is wise to be sure your skin agrees with the formula.