What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate?
Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate is a plant based ingredient created by linking three glycerin molecules, then attaching five medium chain fatty acids known as caprylic and capric acids. The glycerin usually comes from vegetable sources like corn, coconut or soy while the fatty acids often come from coconut or palm kernel oil. Chemists first explored this type of molecule in the early 2000s when brands asked for gentle PEG-free alternatives that would still break down makeup and dirt without stripping skin. To make it, manufacturers first heat glycerin so the molecules bond into polyglycerin-3. They then combine this with purified caprylic and capric acids in the presence of a food grade catalyst. The result is an ester that dissolves oils, mixes with water and feels light on skin.
Its multitasking nature means you will spot it in cleansing oils, balm cleansers, micellar waters, face masks, lightweight lotions, baby wipes, sprayable sunscreens and even some hair conditioners where a mild non-soap cleanser is needed.
Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty in many formulas and can even take on a third role when needed.
- Cleansing: Lifts away makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum without the squeaky tight feel that harsher surfactants can cause, leaving skin comfortable after rinsing
- Solvent: Helps dissolve fragrance oils, active extracts or stubborn pigments so the final product stays uniform and clear instead of separating
- Emulsifying: Allows oil and water to blend into stable milks, creams or gels which means products stay smooth on the shelf and feel pleasant during use
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate
This gentle cleanser is generally well tolerated by all skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive skin. It removes oil and makeup without harsh surfactant residue so even delicate or reactive complexions tend to do well with it. Those with very oily or acne-prone skin may still prefer a deeper second cleanse afterward, but the ingredient itself is not known to clog pores.
Because it is made from vegetable glycerin and plant sourced fatty acids, products using Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate are usually suitable for vegans and vegetarians. If a formula lists this material and there are no animal derived additives elsewhere on the label, it should meet vegan standards.
No research shows a specific risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women. The ingredient remains on the surface of skin and is considered non toxic, yet this is not medical advice. Anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare provider before adding new skincare just to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate does not make skin more prone to sunburn so it is not regarded as photosensitising. As with any cleansing agent, rinsing well and following with sunscreen during the day is still recommended.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues yet most users experience none when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild redness or tingling in very sensitive skin, usually temporary and linked to over-cleansing
- Allergic contact dermatitis for individuals with a rare sensitivity to medium chain fatty acids or glycerin derivatives
- Transient eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes during makeup removal
- Surface breakouts in a small number of acne-prone users if the rest of the formula contains heavier oils that linger after rinse off
If any irritation, swelling or persistent discomfort develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate is largely water dispersible and rinses off easily, so it does not linger in pores the way heavier oils can. Although it is built from medium chain fatty acids, converting them into a polyglyceryl ester reduces their tendency to block follicles. Most formulators therefore treat it as very low risk for congestion.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the vast majority of cases.
Its low rating applies to the pure ingredient; an overall product can still feel heavier if other comedogenic oils are included so always consider the full label.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Pentacaprylate/Caprate acts as a gentle cleansing agent, a reliable solvent and a lightweight emulsifier. Its polyglycerin backbone grabs water while the attached caprylic and capric chains attract oils, letting it pull grime off skin then rinse away without residue. That same dual nature also keeps fragrances and actives dissolved and holds oil and water together in smooth stable formulas.
Brands looking for PEG-free alternatives and milder surfactants have made this ingredient increasingly popular, especially in cleansing balms, micellar waters and baby care lines, though it is still less common than classic PEG esters.
Safety data show a very low irritation profile and no evidence of systemic toxicity. As with any cosmetic ingredient it is wise to do a quick patch test when trying something new just to be cautious.