What Is Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate?
Polyglyceryl-5 dioleate is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking five glycerol molecules then attaching two oleic acid chains. Glycerol typically comes from vegetable oils while oleic acid is abundant in olives sunflower and other seed oils. Chemists combine them through a process called esterification, producing a mild biodegradable material that carries both water-loving and oil-loving parts.
Interest in polyglyceryl esters began in the 1990s as brands searched for gentler alternatives to traditional PEG surfactants. Their ability to blend water and oil without extra irritation made them popular in natural and sensitive-skin formulas. Today suppliers scale the material in modern reactors that heat and vacuum-strip the raw oils, drive the esterification, then purify the finished liquid.
You will spot polyglyceryl-5 dioleate most often in cleansing balms, makeup removers, cream cleansers, moisturizing masks and lightweight lotions where a stable oil-in-water emulsion is needed. It also appears in baby care products and sun care emulsions that call for non-ionic, PEG-free technology.
Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient mainly serves one key role in formulations
As an emulsifier polyglyceryl-5 dioleate helps oil and water stay evenly mixed, preventing separation in the jar and ensuring each pump or scoop delivers the same texture and performance. A stable emulsion feels smoother spreads more easily and enhances the delivery of active ingredients, helping the final product perform consistently from first use to last.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate
Because it is a mild non-ionic emulsifier, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate is generally suitable for dry, normal, combination and sensitive skin. It has a low tendency to clog pores so even those who are oily or breakout-prone usually tolerate it well, though very acne-sensitive individuals may still prefer lighter formulas.
The ingredient is made from vegetable glycerin and plant-derived oleic acid so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles without reservation.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used as intended in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before adding new products just to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-5 dioleate is not known to cause photosensitivity and does not increase the skin’s reaction to sunlight. It is also biodegradable and free of ethoxylated residues making it a common choice for baby care formulas where gentleness is key.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical polyglyceryl-5 dioleate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential but unlikely side effects when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels and manufactured correctly.
- Mild skin irritation – may appear as transient redness or a tingling sensation, usually if the product contains additional actives or fragrances
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare sensitivity to either the polyglyceryl backbone or residual fatty acids can lead to itching or rash
- Eye stinging – possible if a cleansing balm or lotion accidentally gets into the eyes during use
- Increased breakouts – uncommon congestion in those extremely prone to acne if the finished formula is rich in heavy oils alongside the emulsifier
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polyglyceryl-5 dioleate has a mostly water-loving backbone with just two fatty acid chains so it does not sit heavily on skin the way thicker plant oils or waxes can. It helps disperse oils rather than form an occlusive layer which keeps its pore-clogging potential low.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most formulations.
As always the overall recipe matters; if the product pairs this emulsifier with rich butters or high percentages of heavy oils the end result could feel greasier and bump the comedogenic feel upward.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-5 dioleate is a mild non-ionic emulsifier that bridges oil and water, stabilises textures and improves spreadability without the need for PEGs or harsher surfactants. Its balanced structure lets formulators create smooth creams, cleansing balms and baby products that rinse clean yet feel comforting.
The ingredient is gaining ground in clean beauty and sensitive-skin lines but is still less talked about than classic emulsifiers like glyceryl stearate or polysorbates, partly because it sits in the mid-range price bracket.
Safety data show it to be low-irritation biodegradable and vegan friendly, making it a safe pick for everyday skincare. Even so every skin is unique so do a quick patch test whenever you introduce a new product that features polyglyceryl-5 dioleate.