What Is Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate?
Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate is a plant-derived ingredient created by bonding five units of glycerin to six molecules of stearic acid. The result is a mild surfactant-like compound that carries both water-loving and oil-loving parts, making it ideal for blending ingredients that normally separate. Stearic acid is typically sourced from sustainable palm or coconut oil while glycerin is obtained from vegetable sugars, giving the material a renewable profile that aligns with modern clean-beauty goals.
The cosmetic industry began exploring polyglyceryl esters in the early 2000s as brands searched for alternatives to petroleum-based emulsifiers. Their ability to stabilise complex formulas without ethoxylation quickly made them popular in natural and sensitive-skin products. Today manufacturers create Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate through controlled esterification: heat and a food-grade catalyst enable stearic acid to react with polyglycerin-5, producing a uniform hexaester that is then purified and milled into a soft pastille or liquid.
You will most often find Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate in creams, lotions and sunscreens that need long-lasting stability. It is also common in cleansing balms, makeup removers, baby care formulas, overnight masks and rich moisturisers where formulators want a velvety feel without heavy synthetic waxes.
Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves one main purpose in topical products.
Emulsifying: Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate helps oil and water mingle into a smooth, uniform emulsion, preventing separation over time. A stable emulsion spreads evenly on the skin, delivers active ingredients more consistently and improves shelf life. Because it is derived from natural sources and is non-ionic, it is considered gentle, making it suitable for sensitive-skin formulas while giving products a light, non-greasy finish.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate
Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its non-ionic nature means it rarely upsets sensitive skin, and it leaves a lightweight feel that will not weigh down acne-prone complexions. There are no known reasons for people with eczema or rosacea to avoid it, though individual tolerance can vary.
The ingredient is obtained from vegetable glycerin and plant-derived stearic acid so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are used in the manufacturing process.
Current safety data shows no issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in a finished cosmetic. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before starting a new skincare product just to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate does not increase photosensitivity so you do not need to take extra sun precautions beyond normal daily SPF use.
The ingredient is also fragrance-free gluten-free and non-comedogenic which makes it a flexible choice for a wide range of formulations.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues and they are unlikely to represent the typical experience for most users when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Minor skin irritation – very rare redness or stinging can occur in extremely reactive skin
- Contact dermatitis – isolated cases of allergy have been reported with fatty acid esters though confirmed reactions to this specific ester are uncommon
- Eye irritation if misused – may cause temporary discomfort if a concentrated product accidentally gets into the eyes before dilution
If any unwanted reaction develops stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
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Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate is classed as non-comedogenic because its large, water-attracting structure keeps it from clogging pores. It sits on the surface only long enough to hold oil and water together then rinses or wears away without leaving a waxy residue. It also has no heavy mineral oils or fatty alcohols that typically raise a clogging risk.
This makes it a safe pick for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most formulas.
As with any emulsifier, the finished product’s overall recipe matters more than the single ingredient, so pore-clogging potential can rise if the formula is packed with rich butters or occlusive oils.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-5 Hexastearate is mainly used to emulsify, meaning it keeps the water and oil parts of a cosmetic blended into a smooth, stable mixture. Its split personality structure, one end that loves water and another that loves oil, lets it lock the two phases together without the need for harsher synthetic surfactants.
While not the biggest name on ingredient labels, it has gained quiet popularity in clean beauty creams, gentle lotions and balm cleansers because it is plant-based, mild and easy to work with.
Current research rates it as very safe for topical use with little to no irritation or pore-clogging risk reported. Still, skin is personal so doing a quick patch test with any new product that contains it is a smart habit.