What Is Polysilicone-20?
Polysilicone-20 is a man-made ingredient created by linking together silicone, fatty acid esters and mild cleansing agents known as polysorbates. Chemically, it is a copolymer that forms when PEG-8 Dimethicone reacts with Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80, then gets crosslinked with small organic acids called succinic acid and maleic acid. The result is a flexible mesh-like molecule that blends the silky feel of silicones with the water-friendly traits of polysorbates.
Silicone technology was embraced by the beauty industry in the 1950s for its ability to leave skin and hair feeling smooth. As chemists searched for silicones that mixed more easily with water-based formulas, they developed hybrid polymers like Polysilicone-20. By the early 2000s this particular ingredient started showing up in moisturizers and color cosmetics because it could deliver a soft finish without the greasy film that older silicones sometimes left behind.
Making Polysilicone-20 involves first preparing PEG-8 Dimethicone, then esterifying polysorbates with fatty acids. These pieces are blended under controlled heat and pH so they form long chains, after which succinic and maleic acids are added to lock the structure into place. The final product is purified and dried into a pourable liquid or easy-to-handle paste.
You will most often find Polysilicone-20 in lightweight facial moisturizers, primers, BB creams, leave-on hair conditioners, sheet masks and soothing after-sun gels. Its ability to make water-based creams feel velvety allows formulators to create products that feel rich yet absorb quickly.
Polysilicone-20’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In beauty formulas Polysilicone-20 serves a single main purpose.
As an emollient it fills in tiny gaps on the skin or hair surface, creating a smooth even layer that locks in moisture and improves slip. This helps creams glide on effortlessly reduces rough texture and gives hair a soft touch without heaviness.
Who Can Use Polysilicone-20
Polysilicone-20 is generally well tolerated by all skin types including dry, normal, oily and sensitive skin because it is non reactive and forms a breathable film rather than a heavy seal. Very acne-prone users who notice that any silicone derivative triggers congestion may prefer to limit use but most people will not encounter that issue.
The ingredient is produced entirely from synthetic raw materials so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. It is not sourced from animals and does not rely on animal-derived processing aids.
No published data show that Polysilicone-20 poses a risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product they plan to use to a qualified healthcare provider to confirm it is appropriate for their situation.
Polysilicone-20 does not increase photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard sun protection habits should still be followed.
The ingredient is also considered colorless and odorless so it rarely interferes with fragrance-free or dye-free formulations designed for sensitive users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polysilicone-20 are uncommon but can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that may occur, although most users will not experience them when the ingredient has been properly formulated.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness itching or a stinging sensation, usually in those with very reactive skin barriers
- Contact dermatitis triggered by sensitivity to silicone compounds, presenting as localized rash or bumps
- Clogged pores or breakouts in individuals whose skin does not tolerate film-forming agents even when the ingredient itself is non comedogenic
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes during application or rinsing
- Build-up on hair shafts leading to a heavy feel or reduced volume when used in leave-in hair products without occasional clarifying shampoos
If any unpleasant reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for personalised guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
We give Polysilicone-20 a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5.
This low score reflects its large flexible polymer structure which stays on the surface instead of lodging in pores. The molecule also has water-friendly segments so it is less likely to trap excess sebum compared with heavier water-repelling silicones.
Most acne-prone users can therefore apply products containing Polysilicone-20 without added concern.
Formulation still matters. If the same product is loaded with thick oils or waxes breakouts can occur regardless of Polysilicone-20’s low rating.
Summary
Polysilicone-20 acts as an emollient that smooths skin and hair by filling microscopic gaps and laying down a light breathable film. Its silicone portion brings slip while the polysorbate links help it blend into water-rich creams so the finish feels soft not greasy.
Though not a household name it appears in modern moisturizers primers BB creams and leave-in conditioners because it delivers a weightless silky afterfeel that consumers enjoy.
Current research plus years of safe use show Polysilicone-20 has a low risk profile with irritation or congestion reported only occasionally. Still it is wise to patch test any new product containing this ingredient to be certain your skin agrees with it.