What Is Polysorbate 40?
Polysorbate 40 is a liquid surfactant made by reacting sorbitol, a sugar alcohol from plants like corn, with palmitic acid then adding ethylene oxide units. The result is a mild, water soluble ingredient that bridges oil and water. First adopted by the food industry in the mid-20th century for its stabilising abilities, it soon moved into personal care when formulators noticed how well it kept creams smooth and cleansing products gentle. Today manufacturers create it in controlled reactors where each step is refined to remove impurities and standardise its performance.
You will typically spot Polysorbate 40 in lotions, lightweight moisturisers, facial cleansers, makeup removers, sheet masks, hair conditioners and leave-on styling creams. Wherever a formula needs oils to stay evenly mixed with water or a soft cleanse without stripping skin, this ingredient often does the job.
Polysorbate 40’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Below are the main ways Polysorbate 40 improves everyday beauty products.
- Cleansing. Its surfactant properties lift away dirt, excess oil and makeup while staying gentle, so skin feels clean yet comfortable rather than tight or squeaky.
- Emulsifying. By linking oil and water phases it keeps creams, lotions and serums from separating which gives a smooth feel, consistent texture and even delivery of active ingredients all the way to the last pump.
Who Can Use Polysorbate 40
Polysorbate 40 is considered gentle enough for most skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive because it is water soluble and has a mild cleansing action that does not strip the skin’s natural barrier. It rarely causes issues for acne-prone or reactive skin as it does not leave an occlusive film and has a very low irritation profile.
The ingredient is typically produced from plant-derived sorbitol and vegetable palmitic acid so it is often suitable for vegans and vegetarians. To be sure strict vegans may want to confirm that the product’s supplier uses only vegetable sources and that no animal testing was involved.
No research indicates that topical Polysorbate 40 is unsafe for pregnant or breastfeeding women. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products, just to be safe.
Polysorbate 40 is not known to increase sun sensitivity or interact with UV light, so it does not raise the risk of sunburn.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Polysorbate 40 vary from person to person. The effects below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used at the low levels found in finished cosmetics.
- Mild skin irritation in people who are highly sensitive to surfactants
- Contact dermatitis such as redness or itchiness in those with an existing allergy to sorbitan esters
- Eye stinging if a product with a high concentration accidentally gets into the eyes
- Rare allergic reaction shown by swelling or hives, usually linked to an underlying sensitivity to related emulsifiers
If any discomfort or visible reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polysorbate 40 is highly water soluble and rinses off easily so it does not linger inside pores where clogs start. It also lacks heavy oils or waxes that typically trigger breakouts. For these reasons formulators consider it very low on the comedogenic scale.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.
One thing to note is that finished products often pair Polysorbate 40 with plant oils or butters. If breakouts occur it is often the accompanying oil phase, not Polysorbate 40 itself, that is the culprit.
Summary
Polysorbate 40 serves mainly as a gentle cleanser and a dependable emulsifier. Its surfactant side attracts dirt and oil so they lift away with water while its emulsifying side keeps water and oil smoothly blended so creams stay stable and pleasant to apply.
You will spot it in everything from everyday face wash to light moisturisers because it is affordable, plant derived and easy for chemists to work with. It is not the flashiest ingredient yet its behind-the-scenes role keeps countless formulas looking and feeling their best.
Overall safety is high with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a quick patch test first to be confident your skin is happy with the formula.