What Is Polyurea Crosspolymer-5?
Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 is a highly crosslinked polymer created by reacting 1,3-dimethyl-4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea with special linking agents that tie the molecules into a dense three-dimensional network. Because of this tight structure it behaves like a soft, flexible powder that swells slightly when it meets water or oils. The material is synthetic, meaning it is made in a lab rather than taken from plants or animals, so its quality and purity can be controlled batch after batch.
The idea of using crosslinked polymers in beauty products started in the late 1990s when formulators searched for new ways to give lotions and serums a smoother feel without adding heavy waxes. Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 came out of that search and was soon adopted by labs looking for an easy way to lay down an invisible film on skin or hair. Manufacturing begins with the urea-based building block, which is dissolved, reacted under heat and pressure, then dried and milled into a fine, flowable powder.
You will usually spot this ingredient in leave-on skin care such as anti-aging serums, daily moisturizers and makeup primers. It is also used in sheet masks, peel-off masks and long-wear foundations where a flexible film helps the product stay put.
Polyurea Crosspolymer-5’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 acts mainly as a film former, creating a thin breathable layer that clings gently to the skin surface. This film helps lock in moisture, smooths the look of fine lines and gives products better staying power so active ingredients remain in place longer. It can also add a soft focus finish that makes skin appear more even and velvety.
Who Can Use Polyurea Crosspolymer-5
Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 is generally well tolerated by all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive because it sits on the surface instead of soaking in. Those with very acne-prone skin may want to note the rest of the formula rather than the polymer itself, since heavy oils paired with any film former can feel occlusive to an already congested complexion.
The ingredient is entirely synthetic and contains no animal derived materials so it suits both vegans and vegetarians. Most suppliers also certify that no animal testing is involved in its production, making it compatible with cruelty-free preferences.
No data suggest that Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 poses a risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. The molecule is large, stays on the surface and is not readily absorbed. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should clear every skincare product with a healthcare professional just to stay on the safe side.
The polymer does not increase photosensitivity and can even help sunscreen stay in place by forming a flexible layer. It is fragrance free and has no known interactions with common actives like retinol, vitamin C or hydroxy acids, which makes it easy to slot into most routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects though they are not expected for most users when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or itching, usually linked to very sensitive skin or overuse of multiple active products in the same routine
- Allergic contact dermatitis an uncommon immune response that can lead to swelling, rash or persistent itch
- Temporary clogged pores or breakouts if the surrounding formula is heavy with occlusive oils or waxes and is not thoroughly removed
- Product pilling or flaking a cosmetic rather than medical issue that can occur when too many layers of silicone-rich or polymer-based products are applied
If any uncomfortable reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a qualified healthcare provider or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 earns a low score because its particles are large, inert and tend to stay on top of the skin rather than seeping into pores. On its own the powder does not supply the fatty acids or waxy residues that typically cause clogs, though formulas loaded with rich oils can still trap debris under the film it forms. Overall it is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the rest of the product is lightweight and properly removed at the end of the day.
The polymer is also fully synthetic so its composition stays consistent from batch to batch, reducing the chance of impurity-related congestion that can sometimes occur with natural butters or waxes.
Summary
Polyurea Crosspolymer-5 acts mainly as a film former that locks in moisture, smooths texture and helps active ingredients or pigments stay put. It does this by swelling slightly then setting into a flexible net that breathes yet resists rub-off.
While not a headline-grabbing star like hyaluronic acid or retinol, the ingredient is quietly popular with formulators who want a silky finish without heaviness. You are most likely to find it in leave-on skincare, primers and long-wear makeup where it boosts performance behind the scenes.
Current safety data show it to be low risk for irritation or sensitization when used as intended. As with any new cosmetic, it is smart to do a small patch test before full application to confirm personal compatibility.