What Is Polyurethane-102?
Polyurethane-102 is a man-made polymer that belongs to the large family of urethane resins often used in everyday goods. It is created through a multi-step process that starts with Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate reacting with Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone. This initial mix of esters is then combined with two diisocyanates—Isophorone Diisocyanate and 1,6-Hexamethylene Diisocyanate—to build the polymer chain. Finally the ends of the chain are capped with a simple alcohol to stabilize the material and fine-tune its feel on the skin.
Urethane chemistry first gained attention in the 1940s for industrial coatings. As cosmetic scientists looked for flexible, long-lasting films that could move with the skin without cracking, they adapted these polymers for beauty formulas. Polyurethane-102 surfaced in the 2000s as a refined version that offers a light, non-tacky finish, making it a go-to choice for modern cosmetics.
Today you will most often find Polyurethane-102 in long-wear makeup, liquid eyeliners, mascaras, setting sprays, facial masks and transfer-resistant lip colors. It also appears in some hair styling products that aim to form a flexible shield around each strand.
Polyurethane-102’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Polyurethane-102 mainly serves one key function in beauty products, and that role drives nearly all of its benefits.
Film forming: Once the formula is applied and the volatile ingredients evaporate, Polyurethane-102 creates a thin, invisible film that clings evenly to skin or hair. This film locks pigments in place, boosts water and smudge resistance, helps active ingredients stay on the surface longer and gives a smooth, lightweight feel without flaking.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-102
Polyurethane-102 is generally considered suitable for all skin types, including oily, combination, dry and even most sensitive complexions. The lightweight film it forms is breathable enough that it rarely feels heavy on oilier skin, while its flexible nature helps prevent tightness on drier areas. People with extremely reactive or dermatitis-prone skin should still approach with caution since any film former has a small chance of trapping heat or sweat that can aggravate flare-ups.
The polymer is fully synthetic and contains no animal-derived raw materials, so it is compatible with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
Current safety data show no known reproductive or developmental concerns when Polyurethane-102 is applied topically. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should run any skincare or cosmetic product past a qualified physician to be safe.
Polyurethane-102 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no documented phototoxicity. It plays well with common actives like retinoids, vitamin C and hydroxy acids because it sits on top of the skin rather than reacting with them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to Polyurethane-102 can vary. The effects listed below are only potential issues and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness itching or a slight burning sensation in very sensitive individuals
- Contact allergy presenting as localized rash or hives in those allergic to urethane resins or isocyanate residues
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes especially in liquid liner or mascara formats
- Temporary pore congestion for acne-prone users if heavy layers are not cleansed off thoroughly at the end of the day
- Dull hair feel when used in styling products if excessive buildup is not removed with clarifying shampoo
If any adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Polyurethane-102 is a large, inert polymer that sits on top of the skin rather than sinking into pores. It is not oily and does not provide nutrients for acne-causing bacteria, which keeps its clogging potential very low. Heavy layering or insufficient cleansing could trap sebum underneath the film, but that risk is related to user habits more than the ingredient itself.
In practical terms Polyurethane-102 is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Because it is often paired with pigments, waxes or other occlusive agents in long-wear formulas, the overall product’s texture can influence pore congestion more than the polymer alone.
Summary
Polyurethane-102 is a synthetic film former that creates a flexible, lightweight shield over skin or hair. Once the volatile solvents evaporate it locks pigments in place, improves water and smudge resistance and helps active ingredients stay where they are applied.
While not as instantly recognizable as silicones or common waxes it has carved out a steady spot in long-wear makeup, liquid eyeliners, transfer-resistant lip colors, setting sprays and some hair products. Brands lean on it for its balance of durability and comfortable feel.
Current safety data show it to be low in irritation and non-sensitizing for most users. As with any cosmetic ingredient individual reactions are possible, so it is smart to patch test new products that feature Polyurethane-102 before full-face or daily use.