What Is Polyurethane-27?
Polyurethane-27 is a man-made polymer created by linking two key building blocks: polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluorohydroxyethyl ether and isophorone diisocyanate. These first react to form a prepolymer, which is then joined with the triethylamine salt of 3-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-2-methyl-1-propionic acid. The end result is a flexible, water-dispersible film former that blends easily into modern cosmetic formulas.
The idea of using lightweight polyurethane films in beauty products took off in the late 1990s when formulators were searching for alternatives to heavier silicones. Polyurethane-27 quickly drew attention because it could create an invisible, breathable layer on skin and hair without a greasy feel. Advances in green chemistry later refined its production process, allowing the polymer to be made in water rather than harsh organic solvents, which helped it gain wider approval for leave-on and rinse-off products.
Today this ingredient appears in a variety of cosmetics such as long-wear foundations, waterproof mascaras, setting sprays, tinted moisturizers, flexible hold hair sprays, anti-frizz creams and protective hand lotions. Its presence helps products resist sweat, humidity and daily wear while keeping the finish soft and comfortable.
Polyurethane-27’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
When added to a formula Polyurethane-27 delivers several practical benefits that improve how a product feels, looks and lasts on skin or hair.
- Film forming – Creates a thin, cohesive layer that locks pigments in place, boosts water and transfer resistance and extends wear time without a stiff or sticky feel
- Hair conditioning – Coats each strand to smooth the cuticle, reduce flyaways and give flexible hold, helping styles stay intact through humidity and light brushing
- Skin protecting – Forms a breathable shield that guards the surface from environmental stressors, minimizes moisture loss and leaves a soft finish suitable for all skin types
Who Can Use Polyurethane-27
Polyurethane-27 is generally well tolerated by all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive skin because it forms a light breathable film that does not trap excess oil or moisture. People with extremely acne-prone skin may prefer spot application first since any film former can, in theory, layer over clogged pores if the skin is not properly cleansed.
The ingredient is fully synthetic and contains no animal-derived components so it is suitable for both vegetarians and vegans. Cruelty-free status depends on the finished brand rather than the raw material itself.
Its large molecular size keeps it on the surface of the skin which is why it is considered low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before introducing new personal care products.
Polyurethane-27 does not absorb UV light so it is not known to cause photosensitivity. It can even help sunscreen stay put by giving the formula extra water resistance, although it is not a substitute for an actual SPF filter.
No other notable restrictions exist, making Polyurethane-27 a flexible option for face, body and hair products.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyurethane-27 differ from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, most often in people with a known sensitivity to polyurethanes or residual isocyanates
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases where the immune system reacts to the polymer or trace processing aids
- Temporary scalp buildup or flaking if heavy styling products containing the polymer are not fully washed out
- Slight pore congestion on very oily skin when layered with multiple occlusive products
- Respiratory irritation when inhaled as an aerosol from hair spray or setting mist used in a poorly ventilated area
- Reduced penetration of active ingredients applied afterward because the film can act as a barrier
If any discomfort or reaction develops stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or pharmacist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (low)
Polyurethane-27 sits on top of the skin as a lightweight film and has a large molecular size that keeps it from seeping into pores. It is not oily, it does not provide a food source for acne bacteria and it is easy to wash off with standard cleansers. For these reasons it ranks just above completely inert ingredients yet well below richer polymers or waxes that can clog pores.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone users in most cases.
If layered with several heavy occlusives or not removed fully, a thin residue could mix with sebum and raise the chance of minor congestion, so proper cleansing remains important.
Summary
Polyurethane-27 is a synthetic film former that locks makeup pigments in place, conditions hair for flexible hold and shields skin from moisture loss. It accomplishes this by creating a clear breathable lattice that bends with facial movements and hair strands without feeling greasy or tight.
While not as famous as silicones or traditional acrylates its water-dispersible nature and comfortable finish have made it a steady pick in long-wear foundations, waterproof mascaras and light-hold hair sprays.
Safety profiles show a very low irritation rate, no known reproductive concerns and minimal comedogenicity. Still, everyone’s skin is different so patch testing any new product that includes Polyurethane-27 is a smart step before full use.