What Is Polyurethane-87?
Polyurethane-87 is a man-made polymer that belongs to the large family of urethanes. It starts with a base polyester created by reacting adipic acid with 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol. That polyester is then linked to PEG-45, glycol and methylene diphenyl diisocyanate to build longer chains, and the ends of those chains are capped with n-butyl alcohol to stabilize the final material. The result is a flexible yet durable film former that dissolves in the water-based or solvent systems used in many beauty products.
Urethanes first gained attention in the 1930s for industrial coatings. Formulators later noticed that certain grades could form clear, comfortable films on skin and hair, opening the door to cosmetic use in the late 1990s. Polyurethane-87 is part of this newer wave, designed to meet modern safety rules while delivering a soft feel.
The production process follows standard cosmetic resin steps: controlled heating vessels combine the starting acids and glycols, purification removes leftover monomers, then the polymer is filtered and milled into a fine powder or pre-neutralized solution ready for cosmetic labs.
You will most often spot Polyurethane-87 in long-wear foundations, liquid eyeliners, eyebrow gels, transfer-resistant lip colors, peel-off masks, setting sprays and hair-styling creams that promise flexible hold.
Polyurethane-87’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Its value in beauty formulas comes from one key role.
As a film forming agent Polyurethane-87 spreads into a thin invisible layer that locks pigments in place, boosts water and sweat resistance, reduces flaking and gives products a smoother glide. This film helps makeup stay put for hours, keeps peel-off masks in one piece for easy removal and provides flexible hold in hair products without a stiff or sticky feel.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-87
Because it is an inert synthetic film former Polyurethane-87 is generally well tolerated by normal, dry, oily and combination skin. Its lightweight flexible layer rarely feels heavy, so even sensitive skin usually gets along with it, though anyone prone to contact allergies to urethane chemistry should stay cautious. Acne-prone users may notice clogged pores if a heavy formula sits on the skin for long hours, so lighter textures are preferable in that case.
The polymer is made entirely from lab-sourced raw materials without any animal derivatives which makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety assessments classify Polyurethane-87 as low risk for systemic absorption, so products containing it are generally considered acceptable during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review their personal routine with a qualified healthcare provider before starting new products just to be safe.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and has no known interactions with sun exposure. It is odorless, colorless and compatible with most other cosmetic actives so there are no special use restrictions beyond basic personal tolerance.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Polyurethane-87 can vary. The issues listed below are potential reactions only and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild skin irritation transient redness or a stinging sensation shortly after application
- Contact dermatitis rare allergic response leading to itching rash or swelling
- Breakouts or folliculitis trapped sebum under the film may trigger pimples in very acne-prone skin
- Tight or dry feeling the film can reduce natural moisture exchange in some users
- Eye irritation watering or burning if the product migrates into the eyes
If any persistent discomfort or visible reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Polyurethane-87 scores a 1 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. The polymer rests on the skin surface and is too large to enter pores, so it rarely sparks direct clogging. Its film can, however, trap oil and sweat under particularly heavy formulas, which is why the rating is not a perfect zero.
This low score means most acne-prone users can use products containing Polyurethane-87 without trouble, especially in lightweight or wash-off formats, though ultra-long wear makeup may still trigger the odd breakout for some.
No data links Polyurethane-87 to fungal acne flare-ups, and it plays nicely with common breakout treatments like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.
Summary
Polyurethane-87’s key job is film forming. Once applied it dries into a thin flexible mesh that locks pigments in place, boosts water and rub resistance and delivers soft touch hold in hair or skin products.
It is not the most famous polymer in beauty but remains a quiet favorite for long wear foundations, liquid liners and brow gels that need comfort plus durability.
Safety reviews rate it low risk for irritation or absorption, with no evidence of hormone disruption or sun sensitivity. Still, patch testing a new product that features Polyurethane-87 is a wise move to confirm your skin’s personal comfort level.