What Is Polyurethane-92?
Polyurethane-92 is a man-made polymer that belongs to the large family of polyurethane materials widely used in everyday products. In the cosmetic world it serves as a film former, helping products stay put once applied to skin or hair. The polymer is built through several controlled reactions. First, a soft polyester backbone is created by combining hexanediol with dimethyl carbonate. This backbone then reacts with dimethylolbutyric acid, 1,4-butanediol and isophorone diisocyanate to introduce urethane and urea links, giving the material flexibility and strength. Finally, lysine is added to improve compatibility with water while sodium carbonate neutralizes the finished polymer so it disperses smoothly in cosmetic formulas.
Polyurethane materials began appearing in cosmetics in the late 20th century when formulators looked for lightweight alternatives to traditional resins. Polyurethane-92 stands out because it forms clear flexible films without a heavy feel or strong odor. You will most often find it in long-wear makeup, peel-off masks, hair styling products like gels or sprays, transfer-resistant lip colors and certain anti-aging serums where a tight but comfortable film can smooth the skin surface.
Polyurethane-92’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In a formula Polyurethane-92 performs one key job that brings several practical benefits.
Film forming: Once the product is applied the polymer dries into an invisible breathable layer that helps pigments and active ingredients adhere to skin or hair. This film boosts the wear time of makeup, reduces smudging or flaking in mascaras and eyeliners, creates the peel-off effect in masks and offers light smoothing that can temporarily blur fine lines.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-92
Polyurethane-92 is generally suitable for all skin types because it forms a lightweight breathable film that does not deposit heavy oils or alcohol. Normal, dry, combination and oily skin can all tolerate it well. Extremely sensitive or allergy prone skin may want to proceed cautiously since any film former can potentially trap other irritants against the surface and increase the chance of redness or itching.
The polymer is made from synthetic building blocks and contains no animal derived raw materials so products that rely on it are usually appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full ingredient list because companion ingredients in the same formula might not meet vegan standards.
Due to its large molecular size Polyurethane-92 is unlikely to penetrate deeply into the skin which makes systemic absorption minimal. Current data suggests that topical use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding is low risk yet this is not medical advice. Expecting or nursing mothers should review any skincare or makeup product with their healthcare provider for personal guidance.
The ingredient does not increase sensitivity to sunlight and there are no known interactions with UV exposure. It can be used in daytime or nighttime products without changing your usual sun protection habits.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Polyurethane-92 differ from person to person. The issues listed below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness stinging or itching shortly after application
- Contact dermatitis or allergic rash in individuals sensitized to polyurethane chemistry
- Occlusive buildup that can trap sweat and debris leading to clogged pores in very oily or acne prone skin
- Dryness or a tight feeling if the film is layered repeatedly without adequate moisturizers
- Eye irritation if the product migrates into the eyes while still wet
- Flaking or peeling when used with incompatible skincare layers causing the film to ball up on the surface
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for advice.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (low)
Polyurethane-92 is a large water-dispersible polymer that sits on the surface rather than seeping into pores. It contains no fatty acids or heavy oils that typically trigger breakouts, so its intrinsic clogging potential is minimal. The thin breathable film can, however, hold sweat and debris if layered heavily on very oily skin which is why it does not score a perfect zero.
Overall this ingredient is usually fine for acne-prone users though extremely oily or congested skin might prefer lighter applications or formulas that include good pore-clearing actives.
Formulation style matters: products that pair Polyurethane-92 with high levels of waxes or butters could raise the overall comedogenic load even if the polymer itself is low risk.
Summary
Polyurethane-92 is a synthetic film former that anchors pigments, extends wear time and delivers a flexible smoothing layer without feeling heavy. By bonding urethane and urea segments onto a soft polyester backbone then neutralizing the final polymer it disperses well in water-based cosmetics and dries to a clear comfortable finish.
The ingredient enjoys steady use in long-wear makeup, peel-off masks and styling products but it is not as ubiquitous as silicones or acrylates so many casual users may not have encountered it yet. When it does appear formulators value its balance of hold, clarity and light feel.
Current safety data shows low irritation and negligible absorption for most skin types which makes Polyurethane-92 a generally safe choice. As with any new skincare or makeup product it is wise to patch test first to be sure your individual skin agrees with the full formula.