What Is Potassium Glycyrrhetinate?
Potassium Glycyrrhetinate is a salt derived from glycyrrhetinic acid, the active part of licorice root. When glycyrrhetinic acid reacts with potassium it forms this water-soluble ingredient that is easier to add to skin care formulas. Its full chemical name is Olean-12-en-29-oic acid 3-hydroxy-11-oxo- (3β 20β) potassium salt, but most brands shorten that to keep things simple.
Licorice has been valued in traditional beauty routines for centuries. In the late 1900s researchers isolated glycyrrhetinic acid for its soothing qualities. Turning it into a potassium salt made it milder and more stable, which opened the door for large-scale use in cosmetics.
Manufacturers start with dried licorice roots that are crushed and steeped in water or alcohol. The extract is purified to pull out glycyrrhetinic acid, then neutralized with a food-grade potassium base. The result is a fine powder or granule that dissolves easily into creams, gels or lotions.
You will spot Potassium Glycyrrhetinate in moisturizers, anti-aging serums, calming masks, after-sun products, toners and even some fragrant body lotions. Its dual role as a skin soother and light scent booster makes it a versatile add-in for both daily and targeted treatments.
Potassium Glycyrrhetinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty in formulas
- Fragrance – adds a mild sweet aroma that can round out or soften the overall scent profile without overpowering other notes
- Skin conditioning – helps skin feel smoother and more comfortable by supplying lightweight hydration and supporting the skin’s natural barrier which can reduce dryness tightness or mild irritation
Who Can Use Potassium Glycyrrhetinate
Because it is gentle fragrant and water soluble Potassium Glycyrrhetinate tends to play well with every major skin type. Dry or sensitive complexions often appreciate its soothing feel while normal and combination skin enjoy the lightweight conditioning. Oily or acne prone users do not need to avoid it since the ingredient is non greasy and has no record of clogging pores. The only group that may need caution is anyone with a known licorice or glycyrrhetinic acid allergy because cross sensitivity is possible.
Potassium Glycyrrhetinate is derived from licorice root and the potassium used in the neutralization step is mineral based so the finished material contains no animal components. That makes it suitable for both vegetarians and vegans.
Current data shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is applied topically at cosmetic levels. Still this is not medical advice and those who are expecting or nursing should pass any new product by their doctor first just to be safe.
The ingredient does not trigger photosensitivity and can be worn day or night without raising the risk of sun related irritation. Standard sunscreen use is still encouraged as part of a healthy routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Potassium Glycyrrhetinate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or stinging especially on very delicate skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to licorice derived compounds
- Transient itching or warmth when layered with multiple active ingredients
- Rare discoloration if the formula contains high concentrations of colorants or fragrances alongside the salt
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5. Potassium Glycyrrhetinate is a small, water soluble salt that rinses clean and contains no oily or waxy residues, so it does not obstruct pores. It is used at very low percentages, further lowering any clogging risk.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Because the molecule dissolves in water and is often paired with lightweight textures like gels, it tends to leave no film on the surface, even when layered with heavier products.
Summary
Potassium Glycyrrhetinate conditions skin and lends a faint sweet aroma. It provides lightweight hydration by supporting the skin’s barrier, calms mild irritation thanks to its licorice-derived roots, and subtly rounds out a product’s fragrance profile without dominating it.
The ingredient sits in a middle ground of popularity: common enough to appear in soothing moisturizers and after-sun gels yet not as mainstream as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide. Formulators reach for it when they want a gentle multitasker that will not overwhelm sensitive skin.
Overall safety data is strong, with low irritation and zero pore clogging reported in normal cosmetic use. Still, skin is individual, so patch testing any new product containing Potassium Glycyrrhetinate is a smart precaution.