Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein?

Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is a plant-based ingredient created by joining a fatty acid from castor oil called undecylenic acid with broken-down wheat protein then neutralising the blend with potassium. The result is a water-soluble powder or liquid that carries the caring parts of wheat together with a light fatty tail. Although wheat proteins have been used in hair and skin care since the 1960s formulators began linking them with fatty acids in the 1990s to boost their surface-active power and staying ability. Today the ingredient is made in a lab: wheat protein is first hydrolysed into small peptides, undecylenic acid is converted to its reactive chloride form, the two are condensed then the mix is neutralised with potassium hydroxide, filtered and dried.

You will spot Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein in lightweight face and body lotions, leave-in hair conditioners, anti-frizz serums, curl creams, sheet masks, after-sun gels and even some men’s grooming products. Brands choose it when they want plant-derived conditioning without heaviness.

Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas this multi-tasker lends both texture help and care benefits.

  • Emulsion stabilising – keeps oil and water phases blended so the cream stays smooth and does not split during shelf life or on the skin
  • Hair conditioning – the small wheat peptides can bind to damaged areas along the hair shaft helping reduce roughness support curl definition and add light body without weighing strands down
  • Skin conditioning – forms a thin flexible film that holds moisture on the skin surface giving a soft touch feel and a temporary smoothing effect

Who Can Use Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

This ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily because it is water soluble and lightweight. Sensitive or easily irritated skin can usually handle it too as it is non occlusive and has a mild pH, though anyone with a diagnosed wheat or gluten allergy should proceed carefully since it is derived from wheat protein.

Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is plant derived so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. The wheat peptides come from grain and the fatty part is sourced from castor oil, with no animal substances used during production.

No data suggest specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetics. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare provider before adding new products.

The molecule does not absorb UV light so it does not make skin more sensitive to the sun. It is also free of known photosensitising impurities.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein differ from person to person. The points below outline possible reactions even though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated in a finished product.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but possible in individuals with wheat protein allergy or heightened sensitivity to plant peptides
  • Mild skin irritation – tingling or redness can occur if used in a very high concentration or alongside other strong actives
  • Eye stinging – if a product accidentally gets into the eyes the peptide salts may cause temporary discomfort
  • Build-up on fine hair – overuse in leave-in products may leave some strands feeling coated until the next wash

If any uncomfortable reaction develops discontinue use and seek advice from a medical professional or pharmacist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is water soluble and used at low concentrations, so it does not linger on the skin to plug pores. Its undecylenic fatty tail is balanced by the peptide portion and potassium salt form, keeping the overall molecule light and easily rinsed away. That makes clogging potential very low, though not zero, which is why it earns a 1 rather than 0.

Generally suitable for acne prone or breakout prone skin.

Remember that a product’s full formula matters; heavy butters or waxes paired with this ingredient could still feel pore blocking.

Summary

This plant derived multitasker serves three main roles: emulsion stabiliser, hair conditioner and skin conditioner. The peptide half clings to hair and skin for softness while the fatty tail anchors at the oil water boundary to keep lotions uniform.

It is not a buzzworthy superstar but enjoys quiet popularity in leave in conditioners, light lotions and masks where brands want a vegan silicone alternative.

Research shows it is low risk for irritation or toxicity. Still, try a small patch first when bringing any new product containing this ingredient into your routine to be on the safe side.

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