Propylene Glycol Citrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Propylene Glycol Citrate?

Propylene Glycol Citrate is a liquid ingredient created by combining propylene glycol with citric acid, resulting in a mono-ester that blends the water-loving nature of propylene glycol with the mild acidity of citrus. The citric part is usually sourced from fermented citrus fruit sugars while the propylene glycol is produced from plant-derived glycerin or petroleum by-products. When chemists react these two components under controlled heat they form a clear, slightly viscous fluid that dissolves easily in both water and many oils, making it a handy bridge between otherwise hard-to-mix ingredients.

Personal care labs first adopted Propylene Glycol Citrate in the late 1980s after formulators noticed its ability to draw moisture to the skin without leaving a greasy feel. Since then it has become a quiet workhorse in everyday items such as face masks, light moisturizers, after-shave balms, refreshing mists, anti-aging serums and hair conditioners. Its gentle profile, neutral scent and broad compatibility let brands slot it into everything from budget lotions to high-end spa treatments.

Propylene Glycol Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This versatile ester supports formulas in two main ways

  • Humectant – pulls water from the air and helps bind it to the upper layers of skin or hair, keeping the surface hydrated and feeling soft long after application
  • Emollient – smooths rough patches by filling in tiny gaps between skin cells which leaves the complexion looking supple and gives creams a silky slip during application

Who Can Use Propylene Glycol Citrate

Because it is light, mildly hydrating and non greasy, Propylene Glycol Citrate tends to suit most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily complexions. Even sensitive skin usually tolerates it since it is low in fragrance and acidity, though anyone with an already irritated or broken skin barrier may feel a mild sting until the area heals.

The ingredient is synthetic or plant derived and contains no animal by products so it meets vegan and vegetarian standards. If a brand states the propylene glycol half comes from a plant source it can also appeal to those who prefer naturally sourced inputs.

Current safety data shows no link between Propylene Glycol Citrate and complications during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing parents should run any skincare routine past a qualified doctor just to be on the safe side.

The ester does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known effect on tanning or SPF performance. It also plays well with most other cosmetic ingredients, so routine layering or mixing in daily use products is rarely a problem.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Propylene Glycol Citrate differ from person to person. The points below cover possible side effects but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at normal levels in well made products.

  • Temporary skin redness or warmth
  • Mild stinging or itching on compromised or freshly shaved skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitised to propylene glycol based ingredients
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Enhanced absorption of strong actives in the same formula which could amplify the actives own side effects

If any of these issues occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for personalised guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0–1 out of 5. Propylene Glycol Citrate is a small, water-soluble molecule that does not sit on the surface or clog pores. It evaporates or absorbs quickly, leaving little residue for bacteria to feed on which keeps pore blockage risk low. A tiny number of people sensitive to propylene glycol itself might notice congestion but this is rare.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.

Because it can boost penetration of other ingredients, any pore-clogging oils or heavy waxes in the same formula could have a slightly stronger impact so check the full ingredient list if you are worried about breakouts.

Summary

Propylene Glycol Citrate works mainly as a humectant and a light emollient. It grabs water from the air then binds it to the upper skin layers for a fresh hydrated feel and it slips between rough skin cells to smooth the surface so creams glide on easily. These two jobs make it valuable in lotions masks serums and hair products.

While not a headline ingredient it shows up steadily in everyday formulas because it is affordable easy to formulate with and friendly to almost every skin type. Safety studies rate it low risk with only mild irritation possible in a small slice of users. Still skin is personal so it is smart to patch test any new product that lists Propylene Glycol Citrate before working it into your routine.

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