Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate?

Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate is an ester created by combining propylene glycol with heptanoic acid, resulting in a light oily liquid that spreads easily on the skin. It is classed as a synthetic ingredient, though the acids and alcohols used to make it can start from natural plant oils or petroleum sources. Chemists first explored this ester in the late 20th century while searching for lightweight emollients that would not feel greasy. Its smooth feel and ability to dissolve many active ingredients quickly made it attractive to the cosmetic industry.

The manufacturing process involves reacting propylene glycol with two units of heptanoic acid under heat in the presence of an acid catalyst. Water is removed during the reaction, driving it to completion. The resulting ester is purified, then shipped as a clear to pale yellow fluid.

You will most often see Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate in face moisturizers, lightweight lotions, sunscreens, primers, setting sprays, liquid foundations, sheet masks and hair styling creams. Formulators like it because it can replace heavier oils, improve product spreadability and help dissolve fragrance or botanical extracts.

Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This versatile ester offers several practical roles inside a formula

  • Anticaking – helps powder ingredients stay free flowing so pressed powders and dry masks feel silky rather than clumpy
  • Film forming – creates a thin flexible layer on skin or hair that locks in moisture and boosts product wear time
  • Skin conditioning – leaves the surface soft and smooth, improving overall feel after application
  • Emollient – fills in microscopic gaps in the skin surface which reduces roughness and gives a supple touch
  • Solvent – dissolves fragrances, UV filters and some plant extracts ensuring even distribution throughout the product
  • Viscosity controlling – thins heavy creams or slightly thickens watery formulas, allowing brands to fine tune texture without affecting stability

Who Can Use Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate

This light ester suits most skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry because it absorbs quickly without leaving a heavy film yet still softens the surface. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it as the molecule has a low irritation profile, though people with a known allergy to propylene glycol derivatives should stay cautious. It is not considered problematic for acne prone or clog prone skin since it has a very low comedogenic rating, making it a welcome alternative to heavier plant oils.

The ingredient itself is made from synthetic or plant derived acids and alcohols and contains no animal by products so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Brands that position themselves as cruelty free often choose it because it does not require animal testing to establish basic safety.

No specific warnings exist for pregnancy or breastfeeding. Available safety data show no hormone disrupting or fetal development concerns when used topically in standard cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice: expectant or nursing mothers should always confirm any skincare routine with their healthcare provider.

Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so users do not need to take extra sun protection steps beyond normal sunscreen use. It is odorless, colorless and non volatile so it will not create inhalation issues in sprays or mists. The ingredient is also non flammable in finished products which helps meet strict consumer safety regulations.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects yet most people will not notice any problems when the ingredient is used at the levels permitted in cosmetics.

  • Mild skin redness or irritation in individuals hypersensitive to propylene glycol derivatives
  • Transient stinging on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Rare contact dermatitis when combined with other irritants in a formula
  • Eye irritation if the raw ingredient is splashed directly into the eye before dilution

If any discomfort, persistent redness or rash develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate is a lightweight ester with a short carbon chain so it spreads thinly and absorbs before it can sit in pores. It lacks the heavy waxes or long fatty acids that tend to trap dead cells and sebum which is why formulators often use it in place of richer oils. This low score means the ingredient is generally safe for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Because it doubles as a solvent, it can even help keep formulas clear of residue that might otherwise build up on the skin.

Summary

Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate acts as an emollient, solvent, film former, anticaking aid and viscosity controller. Its small, flexible structure lets it glide over skin filling in rough spots while carrying fragrances, UV filters and extracts evenly through a product. The thin film it leaves behind helps lock in moisture without a greasy after feel and it can fine tune the thickness of both creams and sprays.

You will spot this ester in a fair number of modern moisturizers, foundations and sunscreens although it is still less famous than staples like glycerin or dimethicone. Brands that aim for a weightless finish appreciate its silky slip so its presence has been rising especially in K-beauty style lotions and mists.

Current safety data show a very low risk of irritation or sensitization at the levels used in cosmetics. No hormone disrupting or long-term toxicity issues have been flagged. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that features Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate just to be on the safe side.

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