What Is Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate?
Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate is a synthetic ester made by joining propylene glycol with undecanoic acid, a fatty acid found in some plant and animal oils. The result is an oil-like liquid also called isopropylene undecanoate that blends smoothly with both water and oils. Chemists first explored this type of ester in the mid-20th century while searching for light, velvety emollients that would not feel greasy on skin. Its pleasing texture quickly earned it a place in skincare labs and today it appears in a wide range of beauty goods.
Manufacturing starts with propylene glycol, a clear liquid derived from petroleum or plant sugars. This is reacted with purified undecanoic acid under controlled heat and pressure. Once the reaction is complete, the mix is refined and filtered to remove any leftover raw materials, leaving behind a clear to pale yellow fluid ready for cosmetic use.
You will most often see Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate in moisturizers, anti-aging creams, sheet masks, liquid foundations, makeup primers and hair conditioners. Formulators like it because it adds slip, locks in moisture and helps other ingredients spread evenly.
Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls triple duty in skincare and makeup formulas
- Film forming – Creates a thin, flexible layer on the skin that helps hold water in and shields against daily stress like wind or pollution. This light film can give products longer wear time and a smoother finish.
- Emollient – Softens and smooths the skin surface by filling in tiny gaps between cells. The silky feel reduces dryness and leaves skin looking supple and refreshed.
- Viscosity controlling – Adjusts the thickness of creams, lotions and serums so they spread evenly without feeling heavy or runny. This ensures a consistent texture each time you squeeze the tube or pump the bottle.
Who Can Use Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate
Because it is a lightweight emollient that leaves little residue, Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate suits most skin types including dry, normal and combination. Those with very oily or acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it as well since its texture is not heavy, though any new emollient may add a touch of surface sheen.
The molecule itself is synthesized from propylene glycol and undecanoic acid. Modern suppliers typically derive these feedstocks from plant materials so finished Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate is generally considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Anyone following a strict plant-only lifestyle should still look for brands that confirm a plant source or carry a vegan certification.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women regarding topical use of this ester and it is not known to penetrate deeply or interfere with hormones. This is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should show the full ingredient list of any product they plan to use to their doctor just to be safe.
Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate is not linked to photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also has no known interactions with common actives such as retinol or vitamin C, making it easy to slot into most routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential effects that could appear yet are unlikely for the average user when products are properly formulated.
Mild redness or stinging – rare transient irritation in sensitive skin
Contact dermatitis – very uncommon allergic response that can present as itch or rash
Temporary clogged pores – possible in individuals already prone to comedones when layered with heavy occlusives
Eye irritation – watering or burning if the ingredient migrates into the eye area
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate is a light ester that spreads thinly and does not sit heavily on the skin. Its molecular structure is too small and fluid to block pores in most situations, so formulators regard it as low risk for congestion. Because it lacks waxy saturated fats, it rinses away more easily than richer emollients.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the majority of formulations.
As with any ingredient, the overall product matters: pairing this ester with heavy oils or occlusives can raise the chance of clogged pores even if the ester itself is low on the scale.
Summary
Propylene Glycol Diundecanoate acts as a film former that creates a breathable shield helping skin hold moisture, an emollient that fills microscopic gaps for a soft feel, and a viscosity controller that keeps creams and serums at a pleasing thickness. It does this by combining the slip of propylene glycol with the cushioning fatty chain of undecanoic acid, giving products a silky yet non greasy finish.
While not a headline ingredient its versatility makes it a quiet staple in moisturizers, makeup bases and conditioning hair care where a light touch is wanted. Safety data show a very low rate of irritation or allergy and its comedogenic score is near the bottom of the scale. Still, everyone’s skin is different so patch testing a new product containing this ester is a smart habit.