Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract?

Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract comes from the deep red heartwood of the red sandalwood tree, a leguminous species native to the dry forests of southern India. The wood is rich in flavonoids, tannins and santalin pigments, all of which give the extract its color and skin-friendly properties. For centuries red sandalwood powder was prized in Ayurvedic skin rituals to cool the skin and refine pores, and those traditional uses inspired its entry into modern skincare.

To create the extract, sustainably harvested wood chips are dried, finely milled and then steeped in a mix of water and gentle food-grade solvents. The liquid drawout is filtered, concentrated and standardized so that each batch carries a consistent level of astringent tannins and antioxidant compounds.

Today formulators include Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract in clarifying toners, pore-tightening masks, lightweight moisturizers, aftershave lotions and soothing anti-aging serums. Its warm natural hue can also subtly tint products, letting brands reduce or avoid synthetic colorants.

Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This botanical offers more than its vibrant color; its natural chemistry gives it two notable functions in personal care formulas.

  • Astringent: The tannins in the extract help contract skin proteins which can temporarily tighten the look of pores, curb surface oil and leave the complexion feeling smoother and refreshed
  • Tonic: Acting as a gentle skin reviver the extract delivers antioxidants that help fend off daily environmental stress while promoting an overall tone that looks healthy and balanced

Who Can Use Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract

The mild astringency of Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract makes it a good match for oily, combination and normal skin that could use a little help with surface oil and visible pores. Dry or very sensitive skin may find frequent use slightly tightens or dehydrates the complexion because of the naturally occurring tannins, so those users should look for formulas where the extract is paired with extra emollients or use it only a few times a week.

Because the extract is 100 percent plant derived and no animal by-products are involved in its harvesting or processing it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

There is no research suggesting topical red sandalwood is unsafe during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare routine past a qualified healthcare professional before use just to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and can be used morning or night. Its strong natural pigment can very occasionally leave a faint tint on light-colored fabrics, so letting products fully absorb before dressing is a smart extra step.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to topical Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract can vary. The points below outline potential side effects that could occur even though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used as directed.

  • Skin dryness – tannins may reduce surface oils more than intended in very dry skin
  • Mild redness or stinging – particularly on sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Contact dermatitis – rare allergic reaction presenting as itching, rash or swelling
  • Temporary staining – the natural red pigment may leave a short-lived tint on skin or nails

If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract is primarily water soluble and contains tannins and flavonoids rather than heavy oils or waxes that could block pores. Its astringent action actually helps mop up excess sebum which reduces the chance of congestion. Because it is not lipid rich and is typically used at low concentrations, the likelihood of it clogging pores is minimal.

This makes the extract generally suitable for acne prone or breakout prone skin. The only caveat is that very dry skin with a compromised barrier might find the astringency slightly sensitising, which could indirectly trigger blemishes.

No known interactions with common acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid have been reported, so it plays well in multi-step routines.

Summary

Pterocarpus Santalinus Wood Extract works mainly as an astringent and mild skin tonic. Tannins tighten the look of pores and curb surface oil while flavonoids and santalin pigments bring antioxidant support that helps skin appear clearer and more balanced.

Although it has a long Ayurvedic history its use in mainstream skincare is still niche, showing up most often in specialty toners, masks and aftershave lotions. Brands that lean on natural colorants or botanical actives are giving it renewed attention.

Overall safety is high with only isolated reports of irritation or temporary staining when formulas are overused on sensitive skin. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test first to be sure your skin agrees with it.

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