What Is Pullulan?
Pullulan is a natural sugar polymer made by a yeast called Aureobasidium pullulans>. The yeast feeds on starch and spins the starch into long, flexible chains of glucose. These chains link together to form a clear, tasteless film that dissolves in water. First discovered in the late 1930s, pullulan was used in the food industry to coat candy and tablets. In the 1990s skin care chemists noticed that the same film forming talent could tighten the look of skin, so the ingredient found a new home in cosmetics.
To produce pullulan on a large scale, manufacturers grow the yeast in tanks filled with a liquid starch solution. The yeast converts the starch into pullulan. The liquid is then filtered, purified and dried into a light powder. This powder blends easily with water based formulas without extra heat or harsh solvents.
You will now spot pullulan in sheet masks, peel off masks, serums, setting sprays, eye creams, lifting gels and many anti aging moisturizers. Its quick film forming action also makes it useful in makeup primers and hair styling products that need a soft flexible hold.
Pullulan’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Below are the two main ways pullulan improves cosmetic formulas.
- Binding – Pullulan helps hold other ingredients together so the product does not separate in the jar or bottle. This gives creams a smooth even texture and keeps powders from dusting or crumbling.
- Film forming – When pullulan dries on the skin or hair it leaves behind a thin invisible layer. This layer can tighten and smooth the look of fine lines, lock in moisture, boost the staying power of makeup and add light flexible hold to hair styles.
Who Can Use Pullulan
Pullulan is considered gentle and non-comedogenic which makes it suitable for most skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive. Because it forms a breathable water-soluble film it rarely clogs pores or traps excess oil. People with a known yeast allergy should approach with caution since the raw material is produced by yeast fermentation, though the final ingredient is highly purified.
The powder is made by fermenting plant starch with yeast and involves no animal derivatives so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
No research points to problems for pregnant or breastfeeding women when pullulan is applied topically, however this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show their skin care routine to a doctor before use just to be safe.
Pullulan does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Regular daily sunscreen use is still important for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical pullulan can vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects that have been reported in rare cases. When the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product most users will not notice any negatives.
- Mild skin irritation – A small number of users may feel temporary itching stinging or tightness especially if their skin barrier is already compromised
- Redness or rash – Hypersensitive skin can occasionally react with localized redness or a blotchy rash
- Allergic contact dermatitis – Extremely rare but possible in people allergic to yeast derived substances leading to swelling flaking or hives
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product immediately and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic)
Pullulan is a water-soluble sugar polymer that does not contain oils, waxes or fatty acids known to clog pores. Once it is applied it forms a light breathable film that rinses away easily with water so it is unlikely to build up in follicles. For these reasons formulators consider it non-comedogenic.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Because it can tighten as it dries some users may interpret the temporary sensation of firmness as dryness. Pairing it with a gentle moisturizer helps keep skin comfortable without affecting its low pore-clogging risk.
Summary
Pullulan is valued in cosmetics for two main talents: binding ingredients together for a smooth even texture and forming a clear flexible film that instantly smooths the look of skin or hair. These abilities come from its unique glucose chain structure produced by the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans.
The ingredient is enjoying quiet but steady popularity, especially in sheet masks, setting sprays and quick lifting serums where a fast surface tightening effect is desirable.
Topical use is regarded as very safe with only rare cases of mild irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare component a small patch test is a smart way to rule out individual sensitivities before full face or body use.