What Is Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin?
Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin is a modified form of keratin, the tough protein that makes up much of our hair, skin and nails. To create it, natural keratin (often sourced from wool) is first broken down into smaller fragments through a process called hydrolysis. These smaller pieces are then reacted with quaternary ammonium compounds, giving the ingredient its “quaternium” name. The result is a water-soluble protein derivative that carries a mild positive charge, which helps it cling to negatively charged hair and skin surfaces.
The idea of blending keratin with conditioning agents began gaining traction in the 1970s as chemists looked for ways to give hair products longer-lasting smoothness. Quaternium-79 became popular because it combined the strengthening feel of keratin with the easy detangling effect of quats. Production typically involves controlled enzymatic or acid hydrolysis of keratin, purification, then the quaternization step followed by drying into a powder or leaving it in liquid form.
You will most often see Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin in rinse-off and leave-in hair conditioners, shampoos, anti-frizz serums, deep repair masks and color-protecting treatments. Some skin care formulas such as hand creams, body lotions and after-shave balms also include it for a soft, smooth finish.
Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multifunctional ingredient improves both the feel and appearance of hair and skin.
- Antistatic – Deposits a light, positive charge that helps neutralize static electricity so hair remains smooth and less flyaway after combing or brushing
- Hair conditioning – Forms a thin film along the cuticle that adds slip, boosts softness, strengthens fragile strands and enhances shine
- Skin conditioning – Binds water to the skin surface and leaves a silky coating that reduces roughness improving overall feel
Who Can Use Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin
Most skin types can tolerate Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin because it is water soluble and lightly conditioning. Dry and normal skin often enjoy the extra softness it delivers while oily or breakout-prone skin usually find it lightweight enough not to feel greasy. Very sensitive or allergy-prone individuals should still review the full ingredient list of any product because keratin is a protein that can occasionally trigger a reaction in those with a history of wool or lanolin sensitivity.
The keratin used to make this ingredient is typically sourced from sheep’s wool, so products containing it are not considered vegan friendly. Vegetarians who avoid animal-derived ingredients for ethical reasons may also want to skip it. At this time plant-based or synthetic substitutes for this exact quaternized keratin are not common, so labeling should be checked carefully.
Pregnant or breastfeeding users generally can apply products with Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin without special concern. The molecule is large, stays on the surface and is not expected to reach the bloodstream. This is not medical advice, so anyone who is expecting or nursing should still run the product past a qualified health professional before use to be extra safe.
Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin does not make skin more sensitive to the sun and has no known effects on hormonal acne or hair color. It works well in all hair textures including straight, wavy, curly and coily.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues, but most people will never experience them when using a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation – tingling, redness or itching can occur in very sensitive users
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but possible for those with wool or lanolin allergies because of the keratin origin
- Eye irritation – stinging and watering if a shampoo or conditioner runs into the eyes
- Hair buildup – a coated or heavy feel after repeated leave-in use, usually resolved with a clarifying wash
- Scalp sensitivity – tightness or flaking in individuals who react poorly to quaternary ammonium compounds
If you notice any of the reactions above discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin is water soluble and used in very small amounts so it tends not to sit in pores or create the greasy film that usually triggers breakouts. Its quaternary group helps it rinse away easily, leaving little residue. For these reasons it scores just above zero but well below ingredients known to clog pores such as heavy oils or waxes.
Suitable for acne prone and breakout prone skin in most cases.
Because this ingredient is almost always paired with other conditioning agents, the overall product formula will ultimately decide how pore friendly the end result is.
Summary
Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin conditions hair, reduces static and softens skin by forming a light protein film that binds water and smooths rough surfaces. Its quaternary modification gives it a positive charge that helps it stick where you want the benefits then rinse away cleanly.
It shows up more often in salon style hair masks, color protect shampoos and a handful of body lotions but is not yet a household name compared with familiar quats like Behentrimonium Chloride. Still, formulators like it because it pulls double duty as both a strength booster and a detangler.
Overall safety is high with only rare reports of irritation or allergy in people sensitive to wool derived proteins. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to do a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it just to be sure your skin agrees.