R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99?

R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99 is a lab made peptide created through fermentation in friendly strains of E. coli. Scientists start by stitching together the genes that code for two smaller peptides, Oligopeptide-91 and Sh-Polypeptide-99. The result is a single chain of 108 amino acids that may form tiny links called disulfide bonds or pick up sugar groups during production. Because it is built with the same 20 amino acids found in skin proteins it fits easily into cosmetic formulas.

Peptides began gaining attention in skin care in the early 2000s when brands looked for gentler, smarter ways to signal skin to act younger. Advances in biotechnology made it possible to grow complex peptides in fermentation tanks instead of harvesting them from animal tissue. R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99 is part of this new wave, offering a consistent cruelty free supply with tight quality control.

Manufacturing starts with inserting the custom gene into E. coli. The bacteria are fed a nutrient broth and pump out the peptide as they grow. After fermentation the mixture is purified, filtered and gently dried to make a stable powder that blends well with water based or emulsified products.

You will usually find this ingredient in concentrated anti aging serums, firming creams, sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers, eye treatments and post procedure recovery gels where a boost of skin conditioning is needed without heavy texture.

R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skin care formulas R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99 is valued for one key job.

Skin conditioning: The peptide sits on the surface and helps skin hold on to water, leaving it feeling smoother, softer and more resilient. By supporting the moisture barrier it can also reduce the look of fine lines linked to dryness and give the complexion a healthier, well rested appearance.

Who Can Use R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99

This peptide suits almost every skin type. Its water loving nature makes it light enough for oily skin yet comforting for dry, mature and sensitive skin because it does not clog pores or leave a heavy film. The only group that may need caution are people with a known allergy to peptides or fermentation derived ingredients who should check the full formula before use.

Because it is produced in a bacterial fermentation process without any animal material it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

There is no specific data showing risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women. The molecule stays on the surface and is not known to penetrate deeply or enter the bloodstream. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with their doctor to be safe.

R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so there is no increased risk of sunburn. It also plays well with most common actives like vitamin C, niacinamide and retinol, making it easy to slot into existing routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99 vary between individuals. The following list covers potential side effects but most people will not encounter them when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.

  • Temporary redness or warmth
  • Mild itching or tingling in very reactive skin
  • Localized swelling or hives indicating an allergy
  • Watery eyes or stinging if the product drifts too close to the lash line
  • Breakouts if paired with a pore clogging base, especially in acne prone users

If any uncomfortable reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a dermatologist or healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic)

R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99 is a water-soluble peptide that sits on the skin surface, does not form an oily film and is too large to build up inside pores. Because it lacks fatty acids or waxy carriers that can trap sebum, it does not encourage blackheads or whiteheads.

That makes it a safe pick for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

Keep in mind that the final product matters. If the peptide is blended with heavy oils or butters the formula, not the peptide, could still clog pores.

Summary

R-Oligopeptide-91 Sh-Polypeptide-99 is a lab grown fusion peptide used in skincare for one main purpose: skin conditioning. By forming a lightweight, moisture-binding layer it helps skin stay hydrated, feel smoother and look more resilient. Its large, water-loving structure lets it deliver these benefits without penetrating deeply, which keeps irritation risk low.

The ingredient is still relatively niche, showing up mostly in forward-thinking serums and masks rather than mass market moisturizers, but interest is growing as brands look for gentle biotech actives.

Overall safety is high. It is produced in a controlled, cruelty-free fermentation process, is non-comedogenic and rarely triggers irritation. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a product before full use just to be safe.

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