Rh-Polypeptide-88: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Rh-Polypeptide-88?

Rh-Polypeptide-88 is a lab-made fragment of a natural protein called IL-12, specifically its p40 subunit. In simple terms, it is a short chain of amino acids created through recombinant technology, meaning scientists insert the DNA code for the peptide into a harmless microbe such as yeast or bacteria, let the microbe grow in a tank, then harvest and purify the peptide. Because it is produced in a controlled setting, it is both highly pure and vegan friendly.

The idea of using this peptide in skincare grew out of medical research into how IL-12 helps build healthy tissue. Formulators noticed that the p40 piece of the protein seemed to support the skin’s own repair signals, so they began adding it to topical products in the early 2010s. Since then it has appeared in a range of premium formulas that focus on improving skin feel and resilience.

You are most likely to find Rh-Polypeptide-88 in lightweight serums, anti aging creams, sheet masks, eye care treatments and post-procedure soothing gels where a calming and conditioning touch is needed.

Rh-Polypeptide-88’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Rh-Polypeptide-88 is valued for a single but important role in skincare formulations.

Skin conditioning: The peptide helps the skin surface feel smoother and more supple by supporting its natural moisture balance and reinforcing the protective barrier. Over time users may notice a softer texture and a healthier looking glow, making the ingredient a helpful addition to products aimed at revitalizing tired or fragile skin.

Who Can Use Rh-Polypeptide-88

Rh-Polypeptide-88 is gentle enough for almost all skin types, including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive skin, because it works mainly on the surface to boost comfort rather than exfoliate or strip oils. Those with very reactive or allergy-prone skin may still wish to progress slowly, as any new ingredient can be a trigger for certain individuals.

The peptide is produced through microbial fermentation with no animal-derived components, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No specific concerns have been raised about topical Rh-Polypeptide-88 for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. The molecule is large and stays mostly on the skin’s surface, so significant absorption is unlikely. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full product ingredient list to a qualified healthcare provider before use to be on the safe side.

Rh-Polypeptide-88 does not cause photosensitivity, so it can be used morning or night without increasing sun sensitivity. As always daily sunscreen is still recommended to protect against routine UV damage.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects or reactions to topical Rh-Polypeptide-88 differ from person to person. The issues listed below are merely potential outcomes and they are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated and stored correctly.

  • Mild redness or warmth
  • Transient itching or stinging on very sensitive skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis in those sensitized to the peptide or a formula preservative
  • Breakouts if the finished product contains heavy occlusive oils that do not suit acne-prone skin
  • Product spoilage-related irritation if a container is left open for long periods

If any persistent discomfort, rash or swelling occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5 – Rh-Polypeptide-88 is a large water soluble peptide that sits on the skin’s surface and lacks oily or waxy residues that could block pores. Because it does not form a film or mix with sebum it is regarded as non-comedogenic and is generally suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts.

The overall likelihood of clogged pores comes down to the final product so heavier creams that also contain rich oils or butters could still cause congestion even when the peptide itself does not.

Summary

Rh-Polypeptide-88 is used in skincare for one main purpose: skin conditioning. By supporting the skin barrier and helping it hold on to water the peptide leaves the surface softer, smoother and more resilient.

It remains a niche ingredient found mostly in higher end serums, eye gels and post-procedure products rather than in mass market lines, yet formulators who work with it appreciate its gentle nature and compatible texture.

Current data points to a strong safety profile with very low risk of irritation or pore blockage. Still it is smart to patch test any new product to rule out personal sensitivities before applying it to the entire face.

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