Sesame Amino Acids: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sesame Amino Acids?

Sesame amino acids are a plant based blend extracted from sesame seed flour after oil pressing. While the oil is often the star of the seed, the leftover meal is rich in proteins that can be gently broken down into individual amino acids through a controlled enzymatic process. These small water soluble molecules are prized for their ability to bind moisture, which is why cosmetic chemists began experimenting with them in the late 1990s as a greener alternative to synthetic humectants. Today you will see sesame amino acids listed on labels of leave on and rinse off products alike, including facial moisturizers, hydrating serums, sheet masks, body lotions and hair conditioners.

Sesame Amino Acids’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

As a humectant sesame amino acids attract water from the environment and draw it into the upper layers of skin or hair. This added moisture can make skin feel softer, look plumper and appear more elastic while reducing the look of fine dryness lines. In hair care formulas the same moisture binding action helps improve manageability and shine.

Who Can Use Sesame Amino Acids

Thanks to their gentle humectant nature sesame amino acids are generally well tolerated by all skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Even sensitive skin usually welcomes the lightweight hydration because the molecules are small and water soluble, leaving no heavy residue that might clog pores or trigger oiliness. The only group that may need extra caution is anyone with a known sesame seed allergy since the amino acids originate from the same source.

Because the ingredient is entirely plant derived it fits easily into vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal by-products or animal testing are required in the extraction or processing of the protein hydrolysate, making it a conscious choice for those avoiding animal sourced ingredients.

Current safety data show no specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when using sesame amino acids topically. Still this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should discuss any new skincare product with their physician just to be safe.

Sesame amino acids are not known to cause photosensitivity so there is no added sun sensitivity risk when using products that contain them. They can therefore be used morning or night as part of a daily routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of sesame amino acids can vary from person to person. The following list covers potential issues yet these outcomes are uncommon for most users when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals who already have a sesame seed allergy
  • Mild redness or tingling on very sensitive skin when first applied
  • Rare stinging if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Potential interaction with other allergenic plant proteins if combined in one formula, increasing the cumulative risk for hypersensitive users

If you experience any of the above reactions stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 out of 5. Sesame amino acids are fully water soluble and contain no oily or waxy fractions that could block pores. Their small molecular size allows them to rinse away easily and they leave virtually no residue on skin. Because of this they are generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. As with any ingredient the finished product formula and personal skin response can influence results but the amino acids themselves carry a very low clogging risk.

Summary

Sesame amino acids act mainly as a humectant, drawing moisture toward the skin or hair and holding it there so the surface feels softer looks plumper and moves more smoothly. They manage this thanks to their tiny water loving molecules which latch onto water and keep it from evaporating too quickly. The ingredient is still something of a niche player compared with heavy hitters like glycerin yet it is popping up more often in modern vegan friendly formulas that aim for a lighter feel.

Topical use is considered safe for most people with the notable exception of anyone with a sesame allergy. Irritation reports are rare and the ingredient is non comedogenic. As with any new product you put on your skin it is smart to do a quick patch test just to be extra safe.

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